Chemin de Stevenson - Liaison 1

The Chemin de Stevenson - Liaison 1 is a 19.3 km point-to-point link stage on the GR 70 in the Haute-Loire department of France, gaining roughly 500 m of elevation over a single day. Rated easy to moderate, it carries walkers from the cathedral city of Le Puy-en-Velay across the Loire valley to Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, the traditional start of Robert Louis Stevenson's 1878 journey.

About the Chemin de Stevenson - Liaison 1

The GR 70, known the world over as the Chemin de Stevenson, runs 272 km through the Cévennes from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Alès. But many modern hikers begin their walk in Le Puy-en-Velay, the great pilgrimage hub of the Auvergne, rather than the smaller village where Stevenson actually set off. The Liaison 1 exists to bridge that gap: a 19.3 km connecting route that joins Le Puy-en-Velay to Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, threading through the hamlet of Coubon and along the upper Loire.

In the autumn of 1878, a 28-year-old Robert Louis Stevenson bought a small donkey named Modestine in Le Monastier and walked south for twelve days into the Cévennes. The book that followed, Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes (1879), became one of the first works of outdoor travel literature in the English language and gave the trail its enduring name. The Liaison 1 lets walkers arriving by train or bus at Le Puy reach Stevenson's true starting line on foot, adding an extra half-day to the classic itinerary rather than missing the approach entirely.

This is the gentlest section of the whole GR 70. With no high passes and a maximum altitude well under 1,000 m, it functions as a warm-up: a chance to test boots, pack weight and pace before the more demanding crossings of Mont Lozère (1,699 m at the Pic de Finiels) further south. The walking is a mix of quiet lanes, farm tracks and woodland paths across the volcanic plateaux that define this corner of the Massif Central.

Geographically, the Liaison 1 stays entirely within the Haute-Loire, the northernmost of the three departments the full Chemin de Stevenson crosses on its way to the Gard. The landscape here is shaped by extinct volcanoes: the basalt cliffs around Le Puy, the cone of the Rocher Corneille crowned by its statue of Notre-Dame de France, and the dark stone of the farm buildings you pass. Stevenson described the country south of Le Monastier as "a land of mountains" — and although this opening link is comparatively tame, it sets the geological scene for everything that follows. Following the trail also means walking a corridor with deep pilgrim history: Le Puy-en-Velay is the start of the Via Podiensis (GR 65) toward Santiago de Compostela, so the first kilometres briefly overlap one of Europe's most-walked spiritual routes before the GR 70 peels away to the south-east.

Route Overview & Stages

The Liaison 1 is designed as a single day, but it splits naturally into three segments around the river crossing at Coubon. The figures below reflect the standard waymarked GR 70 link route; total distance is 19.3 km with around 500 m of cumulative ascent.

Most walkers complete the link in four to five hours at a relaxed pace, including stops. Because it is a transit stage rather than a scenic centrepiece, many hikers tackle it in the afternoon of arrival and overnight in Le Monastier before the first full Cévennes day to Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas (23.9 km).

The waymarking follows the standard GR red-and-white blazes (balisage) used across the French network, painted on posts, rocks and tree trunks. A double blaze with a turn means the path changes direction; a red-and-white cross means you are heading the wrong way. The route is well signed throughout this stage, but two short stretches of road-walking near Coubon and on the outskirts of Le Monastier call for attention to traffic. There is no significant exposure and no scrambling, so trekking poles are optional rather than essential on the Liaison 1. If you are walking the full 272 km Chemin de Stevenson, treat the modest 500 m of ascent here as a benchmark: the later stages over Mont Lozère and into the Cévennes valleys routinely demand twice that climb in a single day.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy — a UNESCO-listed Romanesque cathedral and one of the great departure points of the medieval pilgrimage network; the trail begins in its shadow.
• Rocher et chapelle Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe — a 10th-century chapel perched on an 85 m volcanic needle, visible as you leave Le Puy.
• The upper Loire valley — the route drops to cross France's longest river while it is still a modest mountain stream near its source on the Gerbier de Jonc.
• Coubon — a riverside village with a medieval bridge over the Loire, the natural mid-point rest and water stop.
• Basalt plateaux of the Velay — open volcanic farmland with long views back toward the peaks surrounding Le Puy.
• Gazeille valley — the wooded river corridor that leads the final kilometres into Le Monastier.
• Abbaye Saint-Chaffre, Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille — the Benedictine abbey at the heart of the village that gave Stevenson his lodging before he set out.
• Stevenson statue and Modestine memorial — markers in Le Monastier commemorating the writer and his famously stubborn donkey.

Best Time to Hike the Chemin de Stevenson - Liaison 1

The Velay plateau sits between roughly 630 m and 950 m on this stage, so winters are cold and can bring snow, while high summer is warm but rarely oppressive. The practical hiking window runs from late April to mid-October. September is the single best month — it is the very season Stevenson himself walked, with stable, dry weather, comfortable daytime temperatures around 18–22 °C, thinning summer crowds and the first golden tones on the plateau.

May and June are also excellent, with green pastures, wildflowers and long daylight, though river levels run higher after snowmelt. July and August are reliably dry but busier, and accommodation in Le Monastier fills quickly during French school holidays. As of 2026, spring conditions in the Massif Central have trended slightly warmer and wetter than the long-term average, so pack a waterproof even in June. Avoid November through March unless you are equipped for cold, short days and possible ice on shaded woodland tracks.

Practical Information

Accommodation

Both ends of the Liaison 1 are well served. In Le Puy-en-Velay, pilgrim gîtes and budget hostels start around €15–25 per night for a dormitory bed, with mid-range hotels at €60–90. Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, as the official GR 70 trailhead, offers several gîtes d'étape and chambres d'hôtes; expect €18–30 for a dorm bed or €25–40 per person in half-board (demi-pension), which includes an evening meal and breakfast — the most convenient option before a long first Cévennes day. A municipal campsite operates seasonally in Le Monastier from around €10–14 per pitch. Coubon, the mid-point, has limited options, so book your night-stop in Le Monastier ahead in July and August.

Getting There & Back

Le Puy-en-Velay has its own railway station with direct and connecting services to Saint-Étienne (around 1 hour 45 minutes) and onward to Lyon (roughly 3 hours total), which is the nearest major airport, Lyon–Saint-Exupéry (LYS). From Saint-Étienne and Lyon there are frequent SNCF trains; check schedules and book through the national operator at SNCF Connect. Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille has no train station; return to Le Puy is by regional bus (around 30–40 minutes) or, more commonly, walkers simply continue south on the GR 70. For full route and waymarking detail, consult the official trail association at chemin-stevenson.org.

Permits & Fees

No permit, registration or fee is required to walk the Liaison 1 or any part of the GR 70 — France's grande randonnée network is free and open to all. You pay only for accommodation, meals and any baggage-transfer service. The southern Cévennes stages cross the Cévennes National Park, where wild camping is restricted to bivouac rules, but the Liaison 1 lies entirely outside the park in the Haute-Loire, so standard French countryside courtesy applies: camp discreetly, leave no trace and ask landowners' permission.

Gear & Packing List

For a single link stage you need only a daypack, but if you are starting the full GR 70 here, this is the moment to confirm your load is dialled in. A 35–55 litre pack handles a multi-day Cévennes traverse comfortably; the Abisko Hike 35 suits light, gîte-to-gîte walkers, while the Arc Haul Ultra 50L and the 3400 Windrider are strong ultralight choices if you are carrying a tent and food. For more options, see our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026.

Bring sturdy trail shoes or light boots, a waterproof jacket, sun protection for the exposed plateau, and at least 1.5 litres of water — reliable refills exist at Coubon and Le Monastier but not in between. Because this is the warm-up before bigger days, take the chance to weigh your food carefully; our guide to how many calories you need hiking a full day helps you pack neither too little nor too much for the stages ahead.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the historic, village-to-village character of the Chemin de Stevenson appeals, France and its neighbours offer several routes in a similar spirit — from gentle cultural traverses to high alpine classics. These pair well with the GR 70 for a longer hiking season.

• Sulle strade dei valdesi: GRV Glorioso Rimpatrio dei Valdesi — a 325 km historical route tracing the return of the Waldensians, rich in heritage like the Stevenson trail.
• Tour du Mont Blanc - Itinéraire principal — the iconic alpine circuit for hikers ready to step up from plateau walking to high mountain passes.
• GR 20 Principale — Corsica's legendary and demanding traverse, for those chasing France's toughest long-distance challenge.

For something further afield with the same hut-to-hut rhythm, our guide on how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania is a great next read.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike the Chemin de Stevenson - Liaison 1?
September is the ideal month, matching Stevenson's own 1878 journey, with dry, stable weather and temperatures around 18–22 °C. The broader season runs late April to mid-October. May and June bring wildflowers and long days, while July and August are reliable but busier, so book accommodation in Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille well ahead.

How difficult is the Liaison 1 section?
It is the easiest stage of the entire GR 70, rated easy to moderate. Over 19.3 km it gains only about 500 m, stays below 950 m altitude and crosses no high passes. The terrain is a mix of lanes, farm tracks and woodland paths, making it an ideal warm-up before the demanding Mont Lozère crossings further south on the Chemin de Stevenson.

How long does the Liaison 1 take to walk?
Most hikers complete the 19.3 km in four to five hours at a relaxed pace, including breaks. It is designed as a single half-day or easy full-day stage. Many walkers arriving in Le Puy-en-Velay by train tackle it in the afternoon and overnight in Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille before starting the longer Cévennes days.

What accommodation is available along the route?
Le Puy-en-Velay has pilgrim gîtes and hostels from €15–25 and hotels at €60–90. Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille offers gîtes d'étape and chambres d'hôtes, typically €18–30 for a dorm or €25–40 per person half-board, plus a seasonal campsite from €10–14. The mid-point village of Coubon has limited options, so reserve your night-stop in advance.

Do I need a permit or pay a fee to hike it?
No. The GR 70 and the whole French grande randonnée network are free and require no permit or registration. The Liaison 1 lies in the Haute-Loire, outside the Cévennes National Park, so no park rules apply on this stage. You pay only for accommodation, food and optional baggage-transfer services between villages.