E9 Section 23: Bulduri - Riga City Centre

The E9 Section 23: Bulduri – Riga City Centre is a 23 km point-to-point trail in Latvia, gaining roughly 30 m across flat Baltic coastal lowlands. Rated moderate for distance rather than terrain, this one-day stage leads from the seaside resort of Jūrmala through pine forest and river paths directly into Riga's UNESCO-listed Old Town.

About the E9 Section 23: Bulduri - Riga City Centre

Section 23 of the E9 European Long Distance Path connects Bulduri — a leafy district of the coastal resort city Jūrmala — with Riga's Town Hall Square, covering 23 km in a single memorable day. The route threads together several distinct landscapes: the Art Nouveau wooden villas of Jūrmala, the right bank of the wide Lielupe River, the pine-scented Bolderāja Dune and Kleisti forest, and finally the cobblestoned lanes of one of Europe's best-preserved medieval city centres.

The E9 is a European long-distance footpath managed by the European Ramblers' Association, running along the Baltic Sea coast through Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania for approximately 1,800 km total. Section 23 sits at a defining junction of the Latvian portion: here the route leaves the open dune beaches north of Jūrmala and transitions into urban walking, delivering hikers directly to the Latvian capital.

The trail is waymarked with yellow rectangular blazes on a white background. Surfaces shift constantly — asphalt and cobblestones dominate the Jūrmala and Riga ends, while sandy forest trails and occasional gravel roads characterise the 11 km middle section between Priedaine and Lāčupe. That central stretch has no services of any kind, so arriving prepared with food and water is essential. At 23 km, most fit walkers complete the stage in 8 to 10 hours.

Difficulty is rated moderate — not because of any climbing (Latvia's coastal terrain is essentially flat throughout) but because of sustained distance on mixed surfaces. Long asphalt stretches through Jūrmala, soft sand in the Kleisti forest, and cobblestones in the Old Town mean your feet encounter every surface type in a single day. Proper footwear with solid cushioning is the single most important gear decision for this route.

Route Overview & Stages

The trail runs southeast from Bulduri railway station through forest and riverside terrain before entering Riga from its western suburbs. Full waypoint information is published on the Baltic Trails official route page. Stage distances below are approximations based on the named waypoints Bulduri – Priedaine – Liepezers – Lāčupe – Iļģuciems – Riga Old Town.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Bulduri Railway Station — The trailhead for Section 23, reached from Riga Central Station by suburban train in under 30 minutes. The station sits in the heart of Jūrmala with cafés and bakeries nearby for a pre-hike breakfast before the 23 km day ahead.
• Jūrmala Wooden Architecture — The opening kilometres pass streets lined with ornate villas built between the 1870s and 1930s in eclectic and National Romantic styles. This unique architectural tradition earned Jūrmala its reputation as the "St Tropez of the Baltic."
• Lielupe River Crossing — Crossing the wide, slow Lielupe River is a scenic high point of the early route. Grey herons hunt along the banks and the bridge viewpoint offers the best open panorama of the day, with pine forest reflecting in the water on both sides.
• Priedaine Village — A quiet settlement of wooden houses and garden plots along the right bank of the Lielupe. Walking through Priedaine feels unhurried and unpolished — a genuine contrast to the resort energy of Jūrmala just 5 km behind you.
• Bolderāja Dune and Kleisti Forest — The heart of the route crosses the southern fringe of the Bolderāja Dune system and winds through the Kleisti pine forest. Sandy trails underfoot, pine resin in the air, and in June and July, wild strawberries and bilberries growing right at the path's edge.
• Lāčupe Cemetery — An atmospheric stopping point deep in the forest where an old Latvian cemetery sits among tall pines. This is also the last reliable public transport connection before Riga — a practical bail-out option if the weather turns or energy runs low.
• Iļģuciems District — Few tourists ever walk through this neighbourhood of Soviet-era apartment blocks and pre-war wooden houses. It gives the hike an authentic working-city character absent from the tourist-facing areas of Riga, and marks the transition from forest to city.
• Riga Old Town (Vecrīga) — The trail ends at Town Hall Square (Rātslaukums), surrounded by the restored House of the Blackheads, Riga Cathedral, and St Peter's Church. The entire Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — one of Europe's most rewarding places to finish a long day's walk.

Best Time to Hike the E9 Section 23: Bulduri - Riga City Centre

The route is walkable year-round, but Latvia's seasons produce very different hiking experiences. As of 2026, the following guide reflects current climate patterns for coastal Latvia.

May: Forests green up rapidly after winter, temperatures reach 12–18°C, and daylight extends to 16 hours. Some sandy sections may still be muddy from snowmelt in early May. Jūrmala is quiet, accommodation prices are lower, and wildflowers line the forest paths — a strong shoulder-season choice for those who prefer solitude.

June — the best month: Latvia's midsummer daylight extends past 22:00, giving you a completely relaxed pace over the 8–10 hour stage with no time pressure. Temperatures average 18–22°C, the Kleisti forest trails are dry, and wild strawberries ripen along the path. Jūrmala is lively but not yet overwhelmed by peak-August crowds. June is the single best month to hike this section.

July–August: Peak season in Jūrmala brings full beaches and accommodation prices that climb 30–50% above May levels. Temperatures can reach 28–30°C. Carry extra water and start early to avoid the midday sun on the open dune passages between Liepezers and Lāčupe.

September: Excellent conditions return as temperatures ease to 14–18°C. Deciduous trees in the Kleisti forest begin turning gold and amber, and visitor numbers drop sharply after the school season starts. The mushroom season peaks in October — serious foragers start arriving in late September.

October–April: Not recommended without winter hiking experience. Snow and ice coat sections of the trail November through March, daylight shrinks to as little as 7 hours in December, and several Jūrmala services close entirely in the off-season. The 23 km stage becomes a significantly harder undertaking in short winter days.

Practical Information

Accommodation

Jūrmala — at the Bulduri trailhead — is the most practical base for the night before your hike. The resort has accommodation for all budgets:

• Budget guesthouses and apartments: from €30–45/night in Bulduri and the adjacent Lielupe districts
• Mid-range hotels along Jomas street (Jūrmala's pedestrian main street): €65–120/night
• Nemo Camping, Jūrmala: from €12–18 per pitch, open May to September

At the Riga finish, options are plentiful:

• Hostels in central Riga: from €12–20 per dorm bed
• Boutique hotels in the Old Town: €85–180/night; advance booking is essential in July and August

There is no accommodation along the trail between Priedaine and Riga. Carry all food and at least 1.5 L of water before leaving Priedaine — approximately 18 km of the route has no services of any kind.

Getting There & Back

To Bulduri trailhead: Suburban trains run from Riga Central Station to Bulduri roughly every 30–60 minutes throughout the day, with the journey taking 25–30 minutes. The one-way fare is approximately €1.50–2.00. Trains on the Jūrmala suburban line are reliable and comfortable.

From Riga Old Town at the trail finish: You arrive directly in the city centre. Riga International Airport (RIX) is approximately 10 km southwest, served by bus route 22 (journey ~30 minutes, fare ~€1.15). Taxis and rideshares are available at Town Hall Square.

Mid-route public transport escape points: Riga city buses serve Liepezers, Kleisti, and Lāčupe Cemetery for hikers who need to shorten the day. Check the Rīgas Satiksme network for current routes and schedules before you leave Jūrmala.

Permits & Fees

No permits are required. The E9 Baltic Coastal Hiking Route runs through public land, municipal forests, and open streets throughout Section 23. There is no trail fee, no national park entry charge, and no registration system. Your only costs are transport to the trailhead (Riga–Bulduri suburban train, approximately €1.50–2.00 one way) and accommodation. Riga Old Town, where the trail ends, is freely accessible at all hours.

Gear & Packing List

Section 23 is a long, flat, one-day trail with highly variable surface types. The emphasis is on comfort and sustained endurance rather than technical mountaineering gear.

Backpack: A 12–20 L daypack is the right choice. The Salomon ADV Skin 12 suits fast-moving day hikers who want minimal weight on a predominantly flat route. The Salomon ADV Skin 20 gives more room for a full day's food, a rain jacket, and a small first-aid kit — the better choice if you want a comfortable buffer for a 10-hour day. Hikers connecting multiple E9 stages over several days will find the Fjällräven Abisko Hike 35 well suited to the wider Baltic itinerary, with its structured back panel and 35 L capacity.

Footwear: Trail runners or light hiking shoes with good cushioning are ideal. Long asphalt stretches through Jūrmala and cobblestones in Riga Old Town make cushioning more important than ankle support on this route. Save the heavy boots for the mountain stages.

Water: Carry at least 1.5 L before leaving Priedaine. The Kleisti forest and Bolderāja Dune sections have no water sources or shops for approximately 11 km. See our guide on how many calories you need hiking a full day for a practical formula covering both hydration and energy needs across an 8–10 hour stage.

Food: Pack a full day's calories from Jūrmala. Budget roughly 400–600 kcal per hour at a moderate hiking pace — that is 3,200–6,000 kcal for the full day depending on your pace and body weight.

Rain gear: Latvia's coastal weather is changeable in any season. A packable waterproof jacket weighing 150–200 g is worth carrying regardless of the morning forecast — the Kleisti forest sections are exposed to wind shifts off the Gulf of Riga.

Navigation: Download the GPX track from the Baltic Trails website before setting out. Phone signal is reliable throughout, but the Kleisti forest has enough intersecting tracks to cause confusion without an active GPS trace on screen.

Sunscreen: Open sections along the Lielupe River and the dune approaches have no tree cover. In June through August, sunburn is a real risk during the exposed midday hours.

For those comparing lightweight pack options across a multi-day E9 itinerary, the best ultralight backpacks of 2026 covers seven tested models well suited to Baltic stage hiking.

Similar Trails You Might Like

Section 23 is one link in the continuous E9 chain along Latvia's Baltic coast. Whether you plan to extend the route north toward the Estonian border or simply explore adjacent stages at your own pace, these sections connect directly and share the flat coastal character of the Latvian E9:

• E9 Section 27: Saulkrasti – Lauči (Latvia) — a coastal section north of Riga through open pine forest and long sandy beaches
• E9 Section 28: Lauči – Tūja (Latvia) — quieter coastal walking through forested dune ridges with easy beach access
• E9 Section 29: Tūja – Svētciems (Latvia) — remote forest and beach combination north of Salacgrīva, one of the wilder E9 stages in Latvia
• E9 Section 30: Svētciems – Ainaži (Latvia) — the final Latvian stage approaching the Estonian border, with long open dune sections and increasing solitude

For a dramatically different kind of long-distance experience, the Theth to Valbona hike in Albania trades Baltic lowlands for Albanian mountain passes — as rewarding as it is different from the flat E9 coastal walking.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike E9 Section 23: Bulduri – Riga City Centre?
June is the single best month. Latvia's midsummer daylight extends past 22:00, temperatures average 18–22°C, and the Kleisti forest trails are dry underfoot. May and September are strong alternatives with fewer visitors and lower accommodation prices. Avoid November through March unless you are experienced in winter conditions: short days, ice on sandy forest sections, and limited Jūrmala services make the 23 km stage significantly harder.

How difficult is the Bulduri to Riga City Centre trail?
The route is rated moderate, with difficulty coming from distance — 23 km over 8 to 10 hours — rather than any significant climbing. The terrain is essentially flat throughout. Mixed surfaces including cobblestones, sandy forest trails, and urban asphalt require footwear with good cushioning, and navigation in the Kleisti forest is the one stretch where a downloaded GPX track makes a real difference to confidence on the trail.

How far should I plan to walk each day on the E9 in Latvia?
Section 23 is designed as a single-day stage. At 23 km in 8–10 hours, it is a full but manageable day for most fit adults. If you are stringing multiple E9 stages together for a longer Baltic itinerary, budget 18–25 km per day as a realistic range, depending on surface conditions and how much time you spend at points of interest along the way.

Where do I sleep on or near the E9 Section 23 trail?
Best options sit at either end. In Jūrmala near Bulduri, guesthouses start from €30/night and Nemo Camping charges from €12 per pitch. In Riga at the finish, hostels start from €12 per dorm bed and boutique Old Town hotels from €85/night. There is no accommodation between Priedaine and Riga — roughly 18 km of the route has zero services — so plan to start in Jūrmala and sleep in Riga.

Do I need a permit or pay any fees to hike this trail?
No permits are needed and the trail is entirely free to access. The E9 runs through public land and open municipal areas throughout Section 23 with no registration system or trail fee. The only costs you will pay are transport to the trailhead (Riga–Bulduri suburban train, approximately €1.50–2.00 one way) and your accommodation. Riga Old Town, where the trail ends, is freely accessible at all hours with no entrance fee.