E9 section 36: Liu-Munalaid

The E9 section 36: Liu–Munalaid is a roughly 14 km point-to-point coastal trail in Pärnu County, western Estonia, gaining barely 20 m of elevation across a single flat walking day. Rated easy, it traces the sheltered Baltic shoreline of the Tõstamaa Peninsula, ending at the small ferry harbour of Munalaid where boats depart for Kihnu and Manija islands.

About the E9 section 36: Liu–Munalaid

This stage is one link in a continental chain. The E9 European long distance path runs 9,880 km from Tarifa in southern Spain to Narva-Jõesuu on Estonia's eastern border, crossing twelve countries along the Atlantic, Channel, North Sea and Baltic coasts. Its termini were extended in 2019, and the whole network is coordinated by the European Ramblers Association, the body that issues the official "E-path" designations across the continent.

In Estonia the E9 follows the national Ranniku matkarada — the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route — which covers 622 km and takes a typical thru-hiker around 30 days. Section 36, from Liu to Munalaid, sits on the Tõstamaa Peninsula in Pärnu County, the broad bay-and-reedbed coast south-west of the city of Pärnu. It is numbered as day 36 of the Estonian itinerary published on the official Baltic Trails portal.

The walking here is gentle and low. Estonia's west coast rises only a few metres above the sea, so this is not a stage you hike for summit views or climbing metres. Instead it rewards you with long horizons over the Gulf of Riga, juniper meadows, coastal pasture grazed for centuries, and the quiet of a shoreline where the loudest sound is usually wind in the reeds. The route is marked, like the rest of the Baltic coastal sections, with white-blue-white blazes painted on stones, trees and posts.

If you are new to multi-day coastal walking and want to understand how to fuel an easy but long flat day, our guide on how many calories you need hiking a full day is a useful companion before you set out.

Route Overview & Stages

Section 36 is a self-contained day stage, but it is most often walked as part of a multi-day push along the Pärnu County coast. The table below places Liu–Munalaid in context with its neighbouring Estonian E9 stages so you can see how a typical 3–4 day block on this coast fits together. Distances for adjacent sections are drawn from the network's published day stages.

Because the terrain is flat, most walkers cover the ~14 km of section 36 in three to four hours of relaxed walking, leaving time to catch a ferry or settle into accommodation near Munalaid.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Liu harbour — a small fishing and yacht harbour on the Tõstamaa coast and the start of the stage, with sheltered moorings and a launching point for trips toward Kihnu.
• Tõstamaa Peninsula coastline — a low, indented shore of bays, spits and grazed coastal meadow that defines the entire walk, characteristic of western Estonia's gently sinking landscape.
• Munalaid ferry port — the stage's end point and the mainland gateway for ferries to Kihnu and Manija (Manilaid) islands, run by Kihnu Veeteed.
• Kihnu Island — a UNESCO-recognised cultural space famous for its living tradition of handwoven striped skirts and matriarchal village life, reachable by ferry from Munalaid in well under an hour.
• Manija (Manilaid) Island — a tiny, sparsely populated island just offshore, ringed by reed beds and prized by birdwatchers during migration.
• Coastal juniper and reed habitats — junipers dot the dry meadows while extensive reedbeds line the shallow bays, both typical of the Gulf of Riga shore.
• Wooden coastal villages — the hamlets between Liu and Munalaid keep the timber-house, fishing-net aesthetic of old Pärnu County, with small chapels and net sheds along the way.
• Birdlife of the shallows — the warm, shallow bays here are a staging area for waterfowl and waders, making spring and autumn especially lively for birders.

Best Time to Hike the E9 section 36: Liu–Munalaid

The Estonian coastal season is short but reliable. The practical window runs from May to September, when daylight is long, the ground is firm and the Munalaid ferries to Kihnu and Manija run on a full schedule. Outside that window much of coastal Estonia turns wet, cold and, from December, snowbound, with ferry timetables reduced.

June is the single best month to walk section 36. Around the summer solstice western Estonia enjoys roughly 18–19 hours of usable daylight, average highs of about 18–20 °C, comparatively low rainfall and firm, dry coastal meadow underfoot. May is a close second — fresh, green and good for birdwatching — but cooler and with patchier ferry frequency early in the month.

July and August bring the warmest sea and the busiest island ferries, with highs often reaching 22–24 °C, but also the year's peak mosquito and tick activity in the reedbeds and meadows; pack repellent and check for ticks each evening. September offers crisp light and autumn bird migration but rising chances of rain and wind off the Gulf of Riga. As of 2026, the Baltic Trails portal continues to publish this section as a summer-season day stage, and the white-blue-white waymarking is maintained for that season; if you are planning a 2026 trip, target a mid-week day in June for the calmest crowds and the most dependable boat connections.

Practical Information

Accommodation

This is a rural coast, so book ahead — there are no large hotels directly on the trail. Typical options include small guesthouses and farm-stays (kodumajutus) around Tõstamaa and the Munalaid area, generally €40–€80 for a double room, and simple holiday cabins from around €50–€90 per night. Many walkers continue by ferry to Kihnu, where guesthouses and homestays run roughly €30–€60 per person including breakfast.

Estonia's "everyman's right" allows responsible wild and tent camping on unfenced natural land, and the national hiking network maintains free RMK (State Forest Management Centre) campfire and forest-hut sites in many coastal areas; these cost nothing but must be booked or checked for availability in advance during summer. Budget €0 for RMK sites and bring a fully self-sufficient setup. Carry cash as a backup, though card payment is near-universal in Estonia.

Getting There & Back

The gateway city is Pärnu, about 40–50 km north-east of the Tõstamaa coast. Pärnu has frequent intercity buses from Tallinn (around 2 hours) and Tartu, and is served by the Rail Baltica corridor under development. From Tallinn Airport (TLL), allow roughly 2.5–3 hours by bus to Pärnu. From Pärnu, regional county buses run toward Tõstamaa and the Munalaid/Liu area, though services are sparse — often only a few per day — so check the national timetable before travelling. Driving from Pärnu to Liu takes about 50–60 minutes. From Munalaid, the Kihnu Veeteed ferry connects to Kihnu and Manija islands; verify the current timetable, as sailings are seasonal and weather-dependent. Plan your bus connections using Estonia's official public transport portal at peatus.ee.

Permits & Fees

No permit and no fee are required to walk section 36 of the E9 — the Baltic Coastal Hiking Route is free and open year-round, and Estonia's right of public access covers walking and responsible camping on natural land. The only costs you will meet are ferries (the Munalaid–Kihnu crossing is a modest per-person fare, typically a few euros), paid accommodation, and any guided island visits. Full route information and day-stage descriptions are published by the trail authority at baltictrails.eu.

Gear & Packing List

Section 36 is flat and short, so you can travel light, but the open Baltic coast is exposed to wind and sudden rain even in summer. Prioritise a waterproof shell, sun protection for the treeless meadows, insect repellent for the reedbeds, and sturdy trail shoes — some shoreline stretches are soft, grassy or pebbly rather than hard path.

For a one-day stage a lightweight pack is ideal. The Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Windrider is a superb minimalist daypack-to-overnight option, while the Fjällräven Abisko Hike 35 suits walkers carrying camping kit for an RMK site. If you plan to thru-hike several Estonian coastal stages with full camping gear, step up to the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Windrider for the extra volume. For a deeper comparison of featherweight options, see our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026.

• Waterproof jacket and packable windproof layer
• Trail-running shoes or light hiking shoes (waterproofing optional)
• Sun hat, sunglasses and SPF for open coastal meadows
• Insect repellent and a tick-removal tool
• 1.5–2 L water capacity (few reliable taps between villages)
• Snacks and lunch — limited shops between Liu and Munalaid
• Power bank and offline map of the white-blue-white route

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the quiet, flat character of the Estonian Baltic coast appeals, the rest of the country's E9 sections offer the same low-effort, high-atmosphere walking — from the southern reaches near Pärnu Bay to the cliffs and harbours west of Tallinn. These nearby stages link naturally into multi-day itineraries:

• E9 section 33: Häädemeeste–Uulu (Estonia, 26 km)
• E9 section 60: Tabasalu – Tallinna sadam (Estonia, 25 km)
• E9 section 58: Laulasmaa – Vääna-Jõesuu (Estonia, 19 km)
• E9 section 56: Paldiski – Kersalu (Estonia, 16 km)
• E9 section 57: Kersalu – Laulasmaa (Estonia, 12 km)

For a complete contrast — steep alpine valleys instead of flat coast — our guide on how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania shows the other end of the European long-distance spectrum.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike section 36: Liu–Munalaid?
June is the best month, with about 18–19 hours of daylight, highs near 18–20 °C, firm meadow underfoot and a full Munalaid ferry schedule. The broader season runs May to September. Avoid winter, when the coast is cold, wet or snowbound and island ferry sailings are sharply reduced.

How difficult is the Liu–Munalaid stage?
It is rated easy. The terrain is flat coastal meadow and shoreline with barely 20 m of elevation change over roughly 14 km, so no climbing skill or scrambling is needed. The main challenges are exposure to wind and sun, soft or grassy footing in places, and summer mosquitoes and ticks in the reedbeds — all manageable with basic preparation.

How long does section 36 take to walk in a day?
Most walkers cover the roughly 14 km in three to four hours at a relaxed pace, since the route is flat with no significant ascent. Allowing extra time for photos, birdwatching, lunch and reaching the Munalaid ferry, plan for a half-day rather than a full strenuous day on the trail.

What accommodation is available near the trail?
Options include small guesthouses and farm-stays around Tõstamaa and Munalaid (about €40–€80 per double), holiday cabins from €50–€90, and homestays on Kihnu island (€30–€60 per person). Free RMK forest campsites and Estonia's right of public access also allow responsible wild camping. Book summer accommodation and ferries well ahead, as this coast is rural.

Do I need a permit or pay a fee to hike this section?
No. Section 36 of the E9 Baltic Coastal Hiking Route is free and open year-round, and Estonia's everyman's right covers walking and responsible camping on natural land. You only pay for optional extras — the Munalaid–Kihnu ferry (a few euros per person), paid accommodation, and any guided island visits. No registration or trail permit is required.