E9 section 39: Matsi-Varbla

The E9 Section 39: Matsi–Varbla is a roughly 20 km point-to-point coastal trail in western Estonia, gaining only about 20 m of elevation over a single day. Rated easy, it traces the low, sandy shoreline of Pärnu Bay through reed beds, juniper meadows and pine forest, offering one of the calmest, most level walking days on the entire Estonian Baltic coast.

About the E9 Section 39: Matsi–Varbla

Section 39 is a single stage of the E9 European long distance path, one of the twelve official European long-distance routes maintained under the umbrella of the European Ramblers Association. The full E9 runs 9,880 km from Tarifa in southern Spain to Narva-Jõesuu in north-eastern Estonia, hugging the Atlantic and Baltic coastlines almost the whole way. The route was extended south to Tarifa in 2019, making it one of the longest continuous coastal walks in the world.

Inside Estonia the E9 is signed and managed locally as the Ranniku matkarada — the Estonian Coastal Hiking Route. This national section is 622 km long, takes around 30 days to complete, and is broken into roughly 20 km daily stages. Section 39, between the small coastal villages of Matsi and Varbla in Pärnu County, sits firmly in the middle of this Baltic stretch, south-west of Matsalu National Park and on the northern shore of Pärnu Bay.

What defines this day is its flatness. Western Estonia is one of the lowest-lying landscapes in northern Europe, and Section 39 barely rises above sea level from start to finish. Walkers follow waymarks of white-blue-white painted on stones, trees and posts — the same marking system used across the entire Estonian coastal route. The character here is quiet and pastoral: thatched coastal hamlets, grazing meadows, broad reed belts where the land dissolves into the sea, and long ribbons of pine standing back from the beach. It is a section for people who want distance without strain, and big skies over still water rather than dramatic climbs.

Route Overview & Stages

Section 39 is itself a single stage, but it is most useful to see it in the context of the days that bracket it. Because the official Estonian route divides the coast into ~20 km legs, the Matsi–Varbla day connects naturally to neighbouring stages along the Pärnu Bay shoreline. The table below shows Section 39 alongside its immediate neighbours so you can plan a multi-day walk.

For the precise GPS track, kilometre markers and any seasonal detours around flooded meadows, consult the official Baltic Coastal Hiking route page for this day at baltictrails.eu, which publishes the authoritative stage data.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Matsi beach — A long, shallow, sandy strand at the start of the section, popular with local families in summer and backed by low dunes and pine. The gentle gradient of the seabed makes the water unusually warm by Baltic standards.
• Pärnu Bay shoreline — The walk follows the northern arc of this broad, sheltered bay, where the sea is calm and the horizon studded with the silhouettes of distant islands.
• Coastal reed belts — Wide bands of Phragmites reed mark the transition from land to sea; these are vital bird habitat and give the route its distinctive whispering soundtrack in the wind.
• Juniper and coastal meadows — Traditional grazed alvar-style meadows dotted with juniper, a protected and characteristic west-Estonian landscape rich in wildflowers in early summer.
• Varbla village — The stage endpoint, a quiet rural settlement with a church, small shop and recreation area that has served the Varbla coast for centuries.
• Varbla recreation area — A coastal campsite and holiday zone near the finish, offering swimming, lean-tos and a base for the next day's walk.
• Pine-forest sections — Stretches of cool, shaded boreal pine where the trail steps back from the open shore, carpeted with lichen and bilberry.
• Birdwatching margins — The whole bay lies on a major migratory flyway; spring and autumn bring large numbers of geese, swans and waders to the shallows.

Best Time to Hike the E9 Section 39: Matsi–Varbla

The practical hiking window in western Estonia runs from May to September. Outside that range the coast is cold, daylight is short, and frozen or flooded meadows can make the low-lying trail hard going. Within the season each month has its own trade-offs.

May brings migrating birds, blooming meadows and long days, but the ground can still be wet and mosquitoes wake up by late month. June and July are warm and bright, with daylight stretching past 22:00 around the summer solstice — excellent for slow, late-evening walking — though July is peak mosquito and midge season in the reed belts. September offers crisp air, far fewer insects, returning bird flocks and quiet beaches, but cooler swimming and a real chance of rain.

As of 2026, the single best month to hike Section 39 is August. Sea and air temperatures peak, the worst of the midsummer insects have eased, daylight is still generous at roughly 15 hours, and the firm, dry late-summer ground makes the flat coastal meadows pleasant rather than boggy. Average August daytime highs sit around 19–21 °C on this coast, with relatively settled weather. Expect roughly 70 mm of rain across the month, so a light shell is still worth carrying.

Practical Information

Accommodation

This is a rural coast, so plan accommodation ahead. The Varbla recreation area near the stage end offers tent pitches and simple lean-tos; expect roughly €8–15 per person for a basic camping spot, with some sites free where they form part of the state forest (RMK) network. Estonia's RMK maintains free public lean-to shelters and designated fire sites along the coastal route, which experienced backpackers use to wild-camp legally and at no cost. For a roof and a bed, guesthouses and holiday homes around Varbla and the wider Pärnu County typically run €40–80 for a double room. If you prefer a comfortable base, the resort town of Pärnu, about an hour south, has a full range of hostels (from ~€25 per bed) up to spa hotels (€90+).

Getting There & Back

The nearest transport hub is Pärnu, around 55 km south, which has a bus station with frequent coaches from Tallinn (roughly 2 hours) and Riga (about 2.5 hours). From Pärnu, regional and rural bus services run toward Varbla and the Matsi–Lao coast, though they are infrequent — check the national timetable in advance and budget extra time. The nearest international airport is Tallinn Airport (TLL), about 130 km north-east, roughly 2 to 2.5 hours away by bus plus connection. Because rural buses are sparse, many walkers self-shuttle by car or arrange a local taxi between the two trailheads. Plan timetables carefully using Estonia's national transport portal at peatus.ee.

Permits & Fees

No permit or entry fee is required to walk Section 39. The Estonian coastal route is free and open year-round, and the country's "everyman's right" allows responsible foot access across most uncultivated land and free overnight stays at RMK shelters. The only costs you should expect are accommodation, food, transport, and any campsite fees where a private operator charges for facilities. Light a fire only at designated RMK fire sites, and never during a forest-fire warning.

Gear & Packing List

Section 39 is flat and short, so the gear emphasis is on weather protection, insects and water rather than technical mountain kit. Even an easy coastal day demands a waterproof shell, because Baltic weather shifts fast and there is little shelter on the open shore. Bring sturdy trail shoes — the ground is soft and occasionally wet underfoot — plus a strong insect repellent for the reed belts and an extra layer for breezy evenings by the water.

For a single-day section a small, comfortable pack is plenty. The ADV Skin 12 or larger ADV Skin 20 are ideal fast-and-light vests for a flat day walk, carrying water and a shell with no fuss. If you are linking several coastal stages and camping at RMK shelters, step up to a multi-day pack such as the 2400 Windrider or the roomier 3400 Windrider, both light enough to keep the gentle terrain genuinely effortless. If you are weighing pack options for a longer coastal traverse, our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026 compares the leading models head to head. Carry at least 1.5 litres of water, since the coast has few reliable freshwater sources, and pack enough food — flat does not mean calorie-free, and our guide to how many calories you need hiking a full day helps you plan portions for back-to-back stages.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the quiet, level rhythm of Section 39 appeals, the rest of the Estonian coast offers many days in the same spirit — and a few with more scenery and town life. These neighbouring and northern stages of the E9 make natural follow-ups, whether you want to keep walking south through Pärnu County or sample the more dramatic cliffs and capes nearer Tallinn.

• E9 section 33: Häädemeeste-Uulu (Estonia), 26 km — a longer southern Pärnu Bay stage
• E9 section 60: Tabasalu - Tallinna sadam (Estonia), 25 km — the dramatic finish into Tallinn harbour
• E9 section 58: Laulasmaa - Vääna-Jõesuu (Estonia), 19 km — sandy beaches west of the capital
• E9 section 56: Paldiski - Kersalu (Estonia), 16 km — cliffs and former Soviet port history
• E9 section 57: Kersalu - Laulasmaa (Estonia), 12 km — a short, easy linking day

For something with more vertical drama once you've enjoyed the Baltic flatlands, our guide on how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania is a striking contrast — a high alpine pass crossing that rewards everything you learn on gentle coastal days.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike E9 Section 39?
The hiking season runs May to September, and August is the single best month. Sea and air temperatures peak around 19–21 °C, the worst midsummer mosquitoes have eased, the ground is dry and firm underfoot, and daylight still stretches to roughly 15 hours. Carry a light rain shell, as the open coast sees about 70 mm of rain in August.

How difficult is the Matsi–Varbla section?
It is rated easy. The stage is almost entirely flat, gaining only around 20 m of elevation across its full length, with no technical terrain. The main challenges are soft or occasionally wet ground in the coastal meadows, exposure to wind and sun on the open shore, and mosquitoes in the reed belts during high summer. It suits beginners and families.

How long is the section and how far should I walk per day?
Section 39 runs roughly 20 km from Matsi to Varbla, in line with the standard ~20 km stages of Estonia's 622 km coastal route. Most walkers complete it comfortably in one relaxed day of 5–6 hours. Because the terrain is flat, fit hikers can link two stages — around 40 km — but rural transport and accommodation are easier if you stick to single stages.

Where can I sleep along the route?
The Varbla recreation area near the finish offers camping and lean-tos for roughly €8–15 per person, and Estonia's RMK network provides free public shelters and fire sites along the coast for legal wild camping. Guesthouses around Varbla run about €40–80 for a double, while nearby Pärnu, an hour south, has hostels from around €25 per bed.

Do I need a permit or pay any fees?
No permit or entry fee is required. The Estonian coastal route is free and open year-round, and the country's everyman's-right access allows responsible walking across uncultivated land and free overnight stays at RMK shelters. Your only costs are accommodation, food, transport and any private campsite fees. Light fires only at designated RMK sites and never during a fire-risk warning.