European long distance path E9 east Asturies

About the European long distance path E9 east Asturies

The E9 east Asturies is the eastern Asturian section of the 9,880 km E9 European Coastal Path, a point-to-point trail along the Cantabrian coast of northern Spain. It covers roughly 120 km with modest cumulative ascent of about 2,500 m across cliffs and river valleys. Rated moderate, it links wild beaches, fishing ports and the foothills of the Picos de Europa.

The E9 is one of twelve European long-distance paths coordinated by the European Ramblers Association. As a whole it runs 9,880 km from Tarifa at Spain's southern tip to Narva-Jõesuu in Estonia, hugging the Atlantic and Baltic coasts through eleven countries. In Spain the route is signed as the "Camino Costero europeo," and the eastern Asturias segment threads between the regional boundary with Cantabria and the city approaches around the Sella estuary.

This is a point-to-point trail, meaning you walk from one end to the other rather than looping back. The eastern Asturian stretch is among the most scenic of the entire E9: a corrugated coastline of headlands, blowholes (the famous bufones), tidal inlets and pasture-backed beaches, with the snow-streaked summits of the Picos de Europa rising just inland. Much of the path overlaps with the older GR-E9 coastal waymarking and, in places, with the Camino del Norte pilgrimage route, so you will rarely walk far without seeing a marker.

Because the official trail authority publishes the E9 as a continuous corridor rather than a fixed set of stages, distances on the ground vary with the variant chosen and with ferry or tidal crossings of the river mouths. The figures below reflect a practical, commonly walked itinerary for the eastern Asturian coast and should be treated as planning estimates rather than surveyed measurements.

The E9 was conceived in the second half of the 20th century as part of the European Ramblers Association's network of twelve continental routes, and it was steadily extended westward; Tarifa was confirmed as the southern terminus only in 2019, lengthening the full corridor to its current 9,880 km. Eastern Asturias is therefore a comparatively young, well-documented link in a very long chain — but the footpaths themselves are old, stitched together from clifftop droving tracks, fishermen's coves and centuries-old pilgrim ways that long predate the formal waymarking. Walking it, you follow the same shoreline that medieval pilgrims, whalers and salt traders once used.

Route Overview & Stages

The section is comfortably broken into five walking days for most hikers, averaging a little under 24 km per stage. Terrain is rolling rather than mountainous, but the constant rise and fall over headlands adds up, and several beach crossings depend on the tide.

Total walking comes to roughly 120 km with about 2,500 m of ascent. None of the climbs exceeds 250 m in a single push, but the path rarely stays flat, and exposed clifftop sections demand attention in wind. Strong walkers compress the route into four days; those who want time for the beaches and cider houses take six.

Navigation is mostly straightforward thanks to dense waymarking — look for the white-and-red GR flashes, the E9's coastal markers and, on shared sections, the yellow Camino del Norte arrows and scallop-shell tiles. The two points where care pays off are the river mouths at the Sella (Ribadesella) and the Villaviciosa estuary, where the most direct line across the sand is only walkable at low tide; otherwise a short detour upstream to a road bridge adds a kilometre or two. Download an offline map before you set out, as mobile coverage thins on the more remote headlands between villages.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Bufones de Pría — A field of coastal blowholes near Llanes where Atlantic swell forces seawater up through limestone shafts, spouting jets several metres into the air on a heavy sea.
• Playa de Gulpiyuri — A tiny inland beach about 100 m long, declared a Natural Monument, fed by the sea through a network of caves rather than a direct shoreline.
• Sella estuary & Ribadesella — The finish line of the annual Descenso del Sella canoe race and gateway to the Tito Bustillo cave, a UNESCO World Heritage rock-art site with paintings dated to roughly 33,000 years ago.
• Asturian Jurassic Coast — Between Ribadesella and Colunga, the cliffs preserve dinosaur trackways; the MUJA museum at Colunga interprets footprints from over 150 million years ago.
• Lastres (Llastres) — A tiered fishing village clinging to the slope above its harbour, one of the most photographed villages in Asturias, with a clifftop viewpoint over the Cantabrian Sea.
• Playa de Rodiles — A broad sand-and-dune beach at the mouth of the Villaviciosa estuary, backed by a protected ría that is a key stopover for migrating waterbirds.
• Tazones — A historic cove where Emperor Charles V first set foot in Spain in 1517, now a working port famous for its fresh seafood.
• Cabo San Lorenzo & Gijón — The section's western end, where the trail descends to the long urban beach and Roman remains of Asturias's largest city.

Best Time to Hike the European long distance path E9 east Asturies

Asturias sits in "Green Spain," the wet, temperate north where the Cantabrian climate keeps the hills emerald all year but also delivers frequent Atlantic rain. The walking window runs comfortably from May to October, with shoulder months offering the best balance of dry days and quiet trails.

The single best month to hike is June. As of 2026, June typically brings long daylight (sunset near 22:00), average highs around 21°C, sea temperatures rising toward swimmable levels, and the lowest rainfall of the warm season before the July–August tourist surge fills the coastal towns. Spring wildflowers still line the clifftops and the dawn sea fog (the local orbayu) usually burns off by mid-morning.

July and August are warm and lively but crowded; book accommodation weeks ahead and expect full beaches around Llanes and Ribadesella. September is a strong alternative — settled weather, warm sea, and the cider harvest in full swing inland. October sees the first Atlantic storms returning, shorter days and slick limestone, so reserve it for experienced wet-weather walkers. Winter walking is possible on milder spells but brings persistent rain, strong onshore winds and curtailed daylight that make the exposed cliff sections genuinely hazardous.

Practical Information

Accommodation

The eastern Asturian coast is well served because it shares infrastructure with the Camino del Norte pilgrim route. Pilgrim hostels (albergues) in Llanes, Ribadesella, Colunga and Villaviciosa charge roughly €10–18 per night for a dorm bunk; some require a pilgrim credential, others accept any walker. Small guesthouses (pensiones) and rural hotels (casas rurales) run about €45–80 for a double room, rising sharply in August. Campsites near the beaches — for example at Llanes, Vega and La Isla — charge around €8–14 per pitch plus a per-person fee, and many open only from Easter to late September. Wild camping is restricted along this developed coast, so plan around fixed accommodation rather than relying on a tent.

Getting There & Back

The nearest airport is Asturias Airport (OVD) near Avilés, about 40 minutes by road west of Gijón. The FEVE narrow-gauge railway (run by Renfe) shadows much of the coast, with stations at Bustio/Unquera, Llanes, Ribadesella, Colunga and Villaviciosa, making it easy to start, end or bail out at any stage; the Oviedo–Llanes leg takes roughly two hours. Long-distance ALSA buses connect Gijón and Oviedo with Madrid (about 5–6 hours) and Bilbao (around 3 hours). To reach the eastern trailhead at Bustio, take the FEVE line to Unquera/Colombres on the Cantabria border, then walk in.

Permits & Fees

No permit or entry fee is required to walk the E9 in Asturias — it follows public rights of way, coastal footpaths and quiet lanes that are free to access year-round. The only costs are accommodation, food and transport. If you intend to stay in pilgrim albergues along the shared Camino del Norte sections, carry a credencial (pilgrim passport, around €2 from cathedrals and many albergues) to guarantee a bed. Protected sites such as Playa de Gulpiyuri and the Villaviciosa estuary are Natural Monuments where camping and fires are prohibited.

Gear & Packing List

This is a damp, exposed coastal walk, so waterproofing matters more than alpine kit. Pack a reliable rain shell and pack liner, two pairs of socks, trail shoes with grip for wet limestone, and trekking poles for the steeper cliff descents. Because most nights are spent indoors, a 35–55 litre pack is plenty; a comfortable, well-ventilated load carrier such as the Abisko Hike 35 suits a hut-to-hut style, while ultralight walkers carrying a tent for the campsites will prefer the 2400 Windrider or, for longer self-supported variants, the roomier 3400 Windrider. For wider pack comparisons see our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026. Carry at least 1.5 litres of water between villages, sun protection for the open headlands, and enough snacks to cover the calorie demand of back-to-back coastal days — our guide on how many calories you need hiking a full day helps you plan resupply at the bakeries and cider houses en route.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the green, sea-fronted feel of eastern Asturias appeals, several other Spanish long-distance routes share its character — coastal pilgrim paths and limestone mountain traverses alike. The Camino del Norte (Cantabria) is the natural continuation, overlapping the E9 for long stretches along the same northern shore. For the classic pilgrim experience inland, the Camino Francés - 01 and its later Logroño to Burgos section offer waymarked, hostel-rich walking, much like our coverage of the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania. For drier, more mountainous terrain try the GR 221 Ruta de Pedra en Sec in Mallorca or the Pyrenean crossing at Bera (GR11) - Ibardin (GR10).

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike the E9 in eastern Asturias?
June is the standout month, with long daylight, average highs near 21°C, the lowest summer rainfall and trails that are not yet crowded by the July–August holiday rush. May and September are strong alternatives. Avoid winter, when persistent Atlantic rain and strong onshore winds make the exposed clifftop sections slippery and genuinely hazardous.

How difficult is the eastern Asturias section of the E9?
It is rated moderate. There are no high mountain passes — the biggest climbs are short headland ascents under 250 m — but the constant rise and fall adds up to about 2,500 m over 120 km. The main challenges are wet limestone underfoot, exposed cliff edges in wind, and a few beach crossings that depend on the tide rather than technical terrain.

How many kilometres per day should I plan?
A comfortable itinerary covers the section in five stages averaging just under 24 km a day, ranging from a 20 km day between Colunga and Villaviciosa to a 31 km day from Llanes to Ribadesella. Fit walkers compress it into four longer days near 30 km, while those wanting beach and cider-house stops spread it across six relaxed days.

What accommodation is available along the route?
Because the path shares infrastructure with the Camino del Norte, pilgrim albergues in Llanes, Ribadesella, Colunga and Villaviciosa cost roughly €10–18 per dorm bed. Guesthouses and rural hotels run €45–80 for a double, and seasonal beachside campsites charge around €8–14 per pitch. Book well ahead in July and August, when coastal towns fill quickly.

Do I need a permit or pay any fees?
No permit or trail fee is required; the E9 follows public footpaths, coastal paths and quiet lanes that are free to access year-round. Your only costs are food, lodging and transport. If you plan to use pilgrim albergues, carry a credencial (pilgrim passport, about €2). Camping and fires are banned at protected sites such as Playa de Gulpiyuri.