Gjendesheim-Besseggen-Memurubu

The Gjendesheim-Besseggen-Memurubu is a roughly 14-km point-to-point ridge trail in Jotunheimen National Park, Norway, climbing to 1,743 m and gaining around 1,100 m of elevation in a single demanding day. Rated hard, it crosses the knife-edge Besseggen ridge dividing blue Bessvatnet from emerald-green Gjende, delivering one of Scandinavia's most famous mountain panoramas.

About the Gjendesheim-Besseggen-Memurubu

The Besseggen ridge is the most walked high-mountain route in Norway, drawing roughly 60,000 hikers each summer to the eastern edge of Jotunheimen National Park. The classic line connects two staffed Den Norske Turistforening (DNT) lodges: Gjendesheim, at 995 m on the eastern shore of Lake Gjende, and Memurubu, perched on the lake's northern bank about 13 km to the west. Most hikers do not walk it as a there-and-back. Instead they ride the Gjende passenger boat one way and walk the other, which is why the route is best understood as a point-to-point.

The signature feature is the egg-shaped ridge itself — "Besseggen" translates roughly to "the egg edge" — a narrow rock spine that separates two lakes sitting almost 400 m apart in altitude. On one side lies Bessvatnet at 1,374 m, a deep cobalt blue; on the other, 400 m straight down, glows the milky emerald Gjende at 984 m, coloured by glacial silt carried in by the Muru river. The colour contrast across that ridge is the image that sells Jotunheimen on a thousand postcards, and it is genuinely as striking in person.

Although the trail covers "only" 13–14 km, it is not a stroll. The high point on Veslfjellet reaches 1,743 m, and the cumulative climbing — depending on direction — sits near 1,100 m. There is exposed scrambling on the steepest pitch of the ridge, where hands are needed and a head for heights helps. The route is part of a wider Regional Walking Network maintained by DNT, and it links into multi-day traverses deeper into the Jotunheimen massif, so strong hikers often treat the Gjendesheim-Besseggen-Memurubu day as the first leg of a longer trek.

Route Overview & Stages

The walk is a single long day, but it breaks naturally into three sections. The figures below assume the popular west-to-east direction: boat from Gjendesheim to Memurubu, then hike back over the ridge. Walking this way puts the famous ridge climb in front of you and saves the gentler descent for tired legs.

Reverse the order if you prefer to climb the ridge with fresh legs from the Gjendesheim side and finish at Memurubu for the afternoon boat. Either way, plan on 6 to 9 hours of moving time; the official lodges quote 5 to 7 hours for fit, fast walkers without long breaks.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Besseggen ridge — the namesake spine, where the trail narrows to a few metres with steep drops on both sides; the single most photographed feature of the hike.
• Lake Gjende (984 m) — an 18-km glacial lake whose milky emerald colour comes from rock flour washed in by the Muru river; you cross it by boat.
• Bessvatnet (1,374 m) — the deep-blue lake sitting 390 m above Gjende, separated only by the ridge, giving the famous two-tone water view.
• Veslfjellet (1,743 m) — the route's high point, marked by a stone cairn, with a panorama across the Gjende Alps and the Jotunheimen peaks beyond.
• The Strip (Bandet) — the level isthmus near the ridge where the trail threads between the two lakes; a natural rest and photo stop.
• Memurubu lodge — a historic lakeside cabin and former mountain farm, the boat landing and food stop on the western end.
• Gjendesheim lodge — the large eastern trailhead lodge near the RV51 road, the logistical hub for the boat and parking.
• Gjende boat dock — the jetty where the passenger ferry shuttles hikers along the lake, central to the one-way logistics of the route.

Best Time to Hike the Gjendesheim-Besseggen-Memurubu

The hiking season is short and tightly tied to two things: snow on the high ridge and the operating dates of the Gjende boat. Practically, the route is in condition from late June to late September, and as of 2026 the Gjende ferry runs from around mid-June to early-to-mid October, with the densest sailings in July and August.

Early summer (late June into early July) can still hold snowfields on the upper ridge and around Veslfjellet, which makes the exposed scramble slippery and slower. By mid-July most snow is gone, the lodges are fully staffed, and the long Nordic daylight gives you a wide safety margin to finish before dark. August offers the most stable, warmest weather but also the thickest crowds, with queues forming on the narrow ridge. September brings autumn colour across the tundra and far fewer people, but daylight shortens fast and the first snow can arrive on the tops without warning.

The single best month is July: snow has cleared from the ridge, the boat runs frequently, the lodges are open for meals and beds, and daylight is near its maximum, giving the largest margin for a 6–9 hour day. Whenever you go, treat the mountain weather as serious — temperatures at 1,743 m can sit near freezing with wind even in midsummer, and the ridge is dangerous in fog or rain.

Practical Information

Accommodation

Both ends of the route have large staffed DNT-affiliated lodges, and booking ahead in July and August is essential. Gjendesheim has roughly 185 beds and a full dining room; Memurubu sleeps up to about 150 guests with meals and a bar. Expect to pay roughly €45–€60 for a dorm bed and around €110–€160 for a private room with breakfast, with DNT members receiving a meaningful discount on bed rates. A served dinner typically runs €35–€45. Wild camping is permitted under Norway's right-to-roam (allemannsretten) at least 150 m from cabins and roads, which is free, but most ridge hikers base themselves in one of the lodges to simplify the boat timing.

Getting There & Back

The trailhead hub is Gjendesheim, beside national road RV51 in Innlandet county. There is no train to the trailhead; the nearest practical rail station is Otta on the Dovre line, about a 1.5–2 hour bus or car transfer away. In summer a Valdresekspressen / scheduled bus service connects Otta and Oslo with the Gjendesheim stop. The nearest major airport is Oslo Gardermoen (OSL), roughly a 4–4.5 hour drive north. Once at Gjendesheim, the Gjende passenger boat shuttles hikers the ~13 km along the lake to Memurubu in about 20 minutes; a one-way ticket costs roughly €22–€28 as of 2026. Sailings fill quickly in peak season, so reserve the boat in advance and pick a slot that leaves you enough daylight for the full crossing.

Permits & Fees

No permit is required to hike in Jotunheimen National Park, and trail access is free. The costs you will actually pay are the Gjende boat ticket, any lodge beds or meals, and parking at Gjendesheim (a daily fee applies). Always carry cash or a card for the boat and a backup, and check current sailing times before committing to a one-way crossing.

Gear & Packing List

This is a serious alpine day hike, not a casual walk, so pack for fast-changing weather even in July. Essentials include sturdy boots with grip for wet rock, waterproof jacket and trousers, insulating mid-layers, hat and gloves, 1.5–2 litres of water, high-energy food, sun protection, a map and compass (or GPS), and a headtorch for late finishes. A 30–45 litre pack handles a day on the ridge comfortably; for the lighter, faster style many ridge hikers prefer, see our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026.

Good day-pack options from our gear database include the Fjällräven Abisko Hike 35 for a supported, structured carry on rough ground, the Osprey Atmos AG 50 if you are continuing into a multi-day Jotunheimen traverse, or the ultralight Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Windrider for minimalists who want to move quickly across the ridge. Because the route burns serious energy over a long day, plan your snacks deliberately — our guide to how many calories you need hiking a full day will help you avoid bonking on the climb up to Veslfjellet.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the Besseggen ridge whets your appetite for dramatic European mountain crossings, the cross-border classic in the Albanian Alps is a natural next step — a hut-to-hut traverse with the same big-views-and-comfortable-lodges formula. Read our full walkthrough of how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania (2026 guide) to plan a similar single-day mountain-pass adventure with staffed accommodation at each end.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike Besseggen from Gjendesheim to Memurubu?
July is the best single month. By then snow has cleared from the 1,743 m ridge, the Gjende boat runs frequently, both lodges are fully staffed, and the long Nordic daylight gives a wide safety margin for a 6–9 hour day. August is warmest but most crowded, while September offers autumn colour and solitude with shorter days and early-snow risk.

How difficult is the Besseggen ridge hike?
It is rated hard. The route covers about 14 km with roughly 1,100 m of climbing, and includes an exposed, hands-on scramble where the ridge narrows to a few metres with steep drops on both sides. A head for heights, sure footing on wet rock, and decent fitness are needed. It is not recommended in fog, rain, or strong wind.

How long does the Gjendesheim-Besseggen-Memurubu route take in a day?
Most hikers need 6 to 9 hours of moving time for the roughly 13–14 km crossing, plus breaks. The staffed lodges quote 5 to 7 hours for fit, fast walkers. Because it is done as a single day with a boat at one end, plan your start around the ferry schedule and leave a buffer of daylight for the descent.

What accommodation is available at each end?
Both ends have large staffed DNT lodges: Gjendesheim with about 185 beds and Memurubu sleeping up to roughly 150, each with meals. Dorm beds run about €45–€60 and private rooms €110–€160, with DNT-member discounts. Wild camping is free under Norway's right-to-roam, at least 150 m from cabins. Book lodges well ahead in July and August.

Do I need a permit or fee to hike Besseggen?
No permit is required and trail access in Jotunheimen National Park is free. Your real costs are the Gjende passenger boat (around €22–€28 one way as of 2026), any lodge beds or meals, and a daily parking fee at Gjendesheim. Carry a card and a cash backup, and reserve the boat in advance during the busy summer season.

For official route details and current conditions, check the Den Norske Turistforening listing at ut.no, and confirm ferry timetables and prices with the Gjende boat operator at gjende.no before you travel.