Greater Patagonian Trail Section 13: Laguna Icalma

The Greater Patagonian Trail Section 13: Laguna Icalma is a remote point-to-point hiking section in Chile's La Araucanía region — part of the International Walking Network (IWN) and one of South America's most demanding wilderness routes. Distance and elevation gain are defined by GPS tracks rather than fixed markers, and no difficulty rating is officially assigned. Crossing ancient Araucaria forests and volcanic Andean terrain around Laguna Icalma, a glacial lake near the Argentine border, this section suits only experienced, self-sufficient trekkers.

About the Greater Patagonian Trail Section 13: Laguna Icalma

The Greater Patagonian Trail (GPT) is a ~3,000 km network of hiking routes, old settlement tracks, river valleys and Andean passes stretching from the Maule region of central Chile southward into Patagonia. Conceived and documented by German engineer Jan Dudeck from around 2014, the GPT is not a single fixed path but a curated system of interconnected routes defined by GPS track files distributed through Wikiexplora, the trail's official documentation platform and primary resource for any GPT hiker.

Section 13 covers the terrain around Laguna Icalma — a remote glacial lake in the Lonquimay commune of La Araucanía, Chile, sitting at approximately 1,340 metres above sea level near the Argentine border. This is deep Andean wilderness: no paved roads, no trail signs, and no emergency rescue infrastructure within hours. The route passes through some of the last intact stands of Araucaria araucana (monkey puzzle tree), a species listed as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List and sacred to the Mapuche-Pehuenche people who have inhabited these highlands for centuries. The pehuén nut has been a Pehuenche staple food for millennia, and the forests through which Section 13 passes carry deep cultural significance beyond their ecological value.

Unlike signposted long-distance trails in Europe or North America, the GPT demands that hikers download the official GPS tracks before departure. There is no waymarking on the ground, and navigation is a core competency on Section 13. River crossings — particularly during the spring snowmelt period from November to early December — can reach knee- to waist-depth in multiple places. This is not a trail for unprepared beginners; it rewards hikers who arrive with strong navigation skills, appropriate river-crossing technique, and genuine self-sufficiency over multiple days in the field.

Section 13 sits within the northern arc of the GPT, where the volcanic cordillera shapes the landscape. The nearby Lonquimay Volcano (2,865 m) — last erupted 1988–1990 — defines the visual character: open ridgelines of dark volcanic rock, Araucaria woodland on slopes between 900 m and 1,800 m, and wide river valleys below.

Route Overview & Stages

Official stage distances and elevation data for GPT Section 13 are distributed exclusively as GPS track files via the Greater Patagonian Trail's Wikiexplora archive. Download the tracks to a dedicated GPS device before departure — these are the authoritative navigation source for this route, and no alternative waymarking exists on the ground. The terrain segments in the table below reflect the known geography of the Lonquimay–Laguna Icalma corridor.

Direction recommendation: Walk Section 13 north to south — entering from Lonquimay and exiting near Icalma village. This conventional GPT direction keeps the most demanding high-terrain navigation early in the section when you are freshest, and delivers you to the Icalma valley exit with clearer onward transport options. Walking south to north is feasible but makes Lonquimay your final stop rather than your starting point, which works less well logistically for most multi-section thru-hikers.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Laguna Icalma — The centrepiece of the section: a glacial lake at approximately 1,340 m altitude, edged by Araucaria woodland and high Andean bog. The lake drains into the Icalma River and marks the border zone with Argentina. On calm mornings, reflections of surrounding ridgelines and ancient Araucaria silhouettes create one of the most photogenic wilderness scenes in the Araucanía.
• Araucaria araucana Forests — The monkey puzzle tree grows at elevations between 900 m and 1,800 m throughout Section 13. Some individual specimens exceed 1,000 years in age; their distinctive candelabra crowns and thick, armoured bark make them unmistakable on the skyline. Walking through these groves at dawn, with mist on the ridgelines above, is among the most striking experiences on the entire Greater Patagonian Trail.
• Lonquimay Volcano (2,865 m) — Visible across much of Section 13's higher terrain, this symmetrical stratovolcano dominates the northern skyline. Its most recent eruption ran from December 1988 to January 1990, producing a new subsidiary cone on the volcano's flank. Dark lava fields are visible on the approach from Lonquimay town.
• Lonquimay Town — The principal resupply point for this section, with a small supermarket, basic hospedajes (guesthouses), and fuel. Population approximately 10,000. The town carries Mapuche-Pehuenche cultural heritage and serves as the logical pre-section overnight base before entering the backcountry.
• High Andean Ridgeline Crossings — The route traverses open volcanic ridges above the treeline where views extend across the Andes toward the Argentine altiplano. In early summer (November–December), residual snowfields on these passes require careful navigation; by January and February they are typically clear, offering outstanding 360° panoramas.
• Icalma Village — A small, remote settlement near the lake and home to a Mapuche-Pehuenche community. Facilities are minimal — no reliable hostel — but local families occasionally offer basic accommodation. The village marks the natural endpoint of Section 13 for point-to-point hikers and the beginning of the road back to Lonquimay (~80 km by road).
• Andean River Crossings — Multiple ford crossings define Section 13's character; water runs highest in November–December (snowmelt) and lowest in February–March. Some crossings reach knee to waist depth early season. Trekking poles are non-negotiable; lightweight river sandals protect boots and reduce slip risk.
• Andean Condor Territory — Open ridgelines above the treeline are prime habitat for the Andean condor (Vultur gryphus), wingspan up to 3.2 m. Early morning departures give the best observation windows as thermals build at dawn.

Best Time to Hike the Greater Patagonian Trail Section 13: Laguna Icalma

The GPT Section 13 hiking season runs from November to March — the Southern Hemisphere summer. Outside this window, winter snowpack closes the high-altitude passes and makes river crossings genuinely dangerous or impassable. Planning a visit in April through October is not viable.

November – December (Early Season): Snowmelt swells river crossings significantly; some fords reach chest depth in early November. Wildflowers bloom on lower slopes and days run up to 16 hours, but afternoon thunderstorms on ridgelines are common. An option for experienced hikers who accept more demanding river conditions in exchange for solitude.

January – February (Peak Season): The single best window for Section 13. River levels drop substantially after the snowmelt peak, high-pass snowfields clear, and weather is most stable. January is the recommended best month to hike Section 13. Temperatures reach 15–20 °C by day and drop to 5–10 °C overnight at elevation; visibility across the Andes is at its clearest; and trail conditions are at their most hiker-friendly. As of 2026, climate variability in the Chilean Andes has extended some seasons slightly, but January remains the reliable peak-season baseline.

March (Shoulder Season): Viable if you start by early March. Autumn rains arrive by late March, river levels rise, and temperatures drop. Araucaria foliage turns golden, making it excellent for photography. Monitor Lonquimay weather forecasts before committing and plan a prompt exit.

Practical Information

Accommodation

Wild camping is the norm throughout GPT Section 13. The trail is a wilderness route with no serviced huts, and hikers must carry full camping equipment: a tent rated to high winds, a sleeping bag rated to at least −5 °C, and sufficient food for the full section without resupply.

In Lonquimay (the northern access town), several hospedajes offer rooms from approximately €15–25 per night, sometimes including breakfast. Budget a night here before and after the section for rest and resupply.

At Laguna Icalma, a basic camping area is managed by local Mapuche-Pehuenche community members. Fees are nominal — approximately €3–5 per person — payable in cash (Chilean pesos) on arrival. Facilities are limited to basic pit toilets. No advance booking is possible; arrive prepared to negotiate politely and carry small-denomination notes.

In Icalma village, occasional homestay accommodation may be negotiated with local families at roughly €10–15 per person. Ask on arrival; there is no formal booking system. Never count on this as a certainty — carry full camping equipment regardless of plans.

Getting There & Back

The primary gateway to GPT Section 13 is Temuco, capital of La Araucanía and home to La Araucanía International Airport (IATA: ZCO). Temuco is served by multiple daily flights from Santiago (approximately 1 hour 30 minutes). For current regional transport and tourism information, Chile's National Tourism Service (SERNATUR) maintains up-to-date guidance for the Araucanía region.

From Temuco, buses run to Lonquimay approximately every 1–2 hours during the day, taking 3.5–4 hours via Curacautín. Services depart from Temuco's Terminal de Buses Rurales. Lonquimay town sits at 900 m elevation and serves as the practical trailhead base for Section 13.

The exit near Icalma village has very limited public transport. Arrange a taxi or shuttle from Lonquimay to the Icalma area (~80 km, roughly €30–50) before starting the section — ask your hospedaje host for driver contacts. Traffic on the Lonquimay–Icalma road is sparse; hitchhiking is not a reliable exit strategy.

Permits & Fees

No formal permit is required for GPT Section 13 as of 2026. The route crosses private farmland, public Andean terrain, and Mapuche-Pehuenche community land near Laguna Icalma. Announce your presence at any inhabited farmstead and ask permission to cross — standard GPT etiquette, generally received positively. Carry Chilean pesos; no card facilities exist on route. The Laguna Icalma camping fee (~€3–5) is the only expected cost. Land-use can change; confirm current status via Wikiexplora before departure.

Gear & Packing List

GPT Section 13 demands a full expedition loadout. The combination of multi-day distance from resupply, mandatory river crossings, off-trail navigation, and sub-zero overnight temperatures on the ridgelines means gear quality and weight both matter. Keeping your base weight low is critical on terrain this demanding — a 10 kg pack is far more manageable than 20 kg on an unmarked volcanic ridgeline.

A 40–65 litre pack suits most GPT hikers on this section. For ultralight speed the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Windrider (approx. 1.15 kg) is a GPT favourite; the Osprey Aether 65 suits those who prefer hip-belt support under heavier loads; and the Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 40L is a proven frameless option. See our Best Ultralight Backpacks 2026 guide for a full comparison.

Beyond the backpack, essential kit for Section 13 includes:

• Shelter: A freestanding or trekking-pole tent rated to 50+ mph wind gusts — Andean ridgeline storms arrive fast and hit hard, even in January.
• Sleeping system: A 3-season sleeping bag rated to at least −5 °C plus a sleeping mat with an R-value of 3 or higher.
• Navigation: A dedicated GPS device (not a smartphone) with the official GPT tracks pre-loaded. A printed backup of key route segments is advisable in case of device failure or battery exhaustion in cold conditions.
• Water treatment: A filter or purification tablets — glacial streams are the primary water source throughout Section 13, and treatment is always recommended regardless of apparent clarity.
• River-crossing gear: Trekking poles are non-negotiable for balance on slippery riverbeds. Lightweight river sandals protect your hiking boots and reduce slip risk during multiple fords.
• Food: Budget for 550–700 kcal per active hiking hour at this altitude. For a practical guide to calorie planning on long hiking days, read How Many Calories Do You Need Hiking a Full Day?
• Communication: A satellite communicator (PLB or Garmin InReach-type device) is strongly advised. There is no mobile signal across most of Section 13, and any emergency evacuation from Laguna Icalma requires hours of travel over rough terrain.

Similar Trails You Might Like

The sections centred on Volcán Descabezado, Volcán Chillán and Volcán Antuco each deliver comparable GPT remoteness — open volcanic ridgelines, Araucaria forest, and minimal infrastructure — with slightly different geology and access logistics, making them natural companions when planning a multi-section itinerary. For a contrasting style of multi-day mountain hiking, the Theth to Valbona hike in Albania offers dramatic limestone terrain and village culture on the other side of the world.

• Greater Patagonian Trail Section 6: Volcán Descabezado (Chile)
• Greater Patagonian Trail Section 8: Volcán Chillán (Chile)
• Greater Patagonian Trail Section 9: Volcán Antuco (Chile)

Frequently Asked Questions