Greater Patagonian Trail Section 21: Valle el Callao

Section 21 of the Greater Patagonian Trail — Valle el Callao — is a challenging point-to-point route in Chile's Los Lagos region, linking Lago Todos los Santos to Lago Rupanco through Valdivian temperate rainforest and Andean volcanic foothills. Precise total distance and elevation gain are not officially consolidated for this remote IWN section; most hikers allow 3–5 days for the traverse. Rated demanding, the route delivers panoramas of three volcanoes, natural hot springs, and near-complete wilderness solitude on one of the world's most ambitious long-distance trails.

About the Greater Patagonian Trail Section 21: Valle el Callao

The Greater Patagonian Trail (GPT) is one of the world's most ambitious long-distance hiking routes, spanning approximately 3,000 km from the high Andes near Santiago southward into the heart of Chilean Patagonia. Classified as an International Walking Network (IWN) route, it stitches together indigenous paths, livestock-driving tracks, and unmapped wilderness into a corridor unlike anything else in the Southern Hemisphere.

Section 21 — named for Valle el Callao, a remote river valley in Chile's Los Lagos region — stands out even within this extraordinary trail. It occupies some of the most dramatic terrain on the entire GPT: the corridor between Lago Todos los Santos and Lago Rupanco, two great glacially-carved lakes separated by forested Andean foothills draped in Valdivian rainforest. The section threads through country so remote that the only way to reach the trailhead is by hired fishing boat.

The Greater Patagonian Trail was pioneered and is maintained by Jan Dudeck, who has spent years mapping, rerouting, and documenting the entire corridor. Section 21 passes through terrain adjacent to Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales — Chile's oldest national park, established in 1926 — sheltering three of the region's most iconic volcanoes: Osorno (2,652 m), Puntiagudo (2,493 m) and Casablanca (1,990 m). This is genuinely remote hiking: no marked waypoints, no staffed refugios in the valley, and river crossings that can become serious obstacles after rain. The reward is an immersion in temperate South American wilderness that very few hikers ever reach.

Route Overview & Stages

Section 21 is conventionally hiked west to east: starting at Petrohué on the shores of Lago Todos los Santos, crossing the lake by private boat to the eastern shore, then trekking through Valle el Callao to finish at Las Gaviotas on the south shore of Lago Rupanco. Because precise per-stage distances have not been officially published in consolidated form for this section, the table below describes the route's natural segments rather than confirmed kilometre totals.

Direction recommendation: Walk Section 21 west to east — from Petrohué through Valle el Callao to Las Gaviotas — rather than in reverse. This keeps the complex boat-hire logistics at the start of the section, where Petrohué locals know the lake and the landing points well. Arranging a fishing boat from Petrohué is far simpler than trying to organise water transport from the sparsely settled south shore of Lago Rupanco. The prevailing westerly winds are also more likely to assist rather than resist you walking eastward. Do not begin this section without confirming your boat in advance: there is no public ferry to the eastern Lago Todos los Santos shore, and arriving without a boat arrangement means the hike does not start.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Volcán Osorno (2,652 m) — Chile's most symmetrical stratovolcano dominates the western horizon from Petrohué and across the lake crossing. Its snow-capped cone rises directly above the turquoise waters of Lago Todos los Santos in one of South America's most iconic mountain views.
• Lago Todos los Santos — The "All Saints Lake" produces an unusually vivid blue-green colour from glacial mineral content. The boat crossing is not a logistical inconvenience; it is a highlight in its own right, offering close-up views of all three volcanoes from the water.
• Saltos de Petrohué — Just outside Petrohué, these rapids cascade over black basalt lava channels with Volcán Osorno as a backdrop. Worth an hour's visit before departing on the main route — and a fine reward on your return.
• Volcán Puntiagudo (2,493 m) — The "sharp-pointed" peak is one of the most visually dramatic mountains on the entire GPT, its improbably narrow spire visible from multiple points across the lake and valley floor.
• Termas del Callao (natural hot springs) — Thermal waters bubble to the surface roughly halfway through the valley, offering a rare opportunity to soak trail-tired muscles in the wild. These geothermal features are a direct surface expression of the Andes' ongoing volcanic activity beneath the landscape.
• Valdivian Temperate Rainforest — Valle el Callao is blanketed in one of the world's most biodiverse temperate forests: ancient coigüe (Nothofagus dombeyi), ulmo, and tepa trees festooned with ferns, mosses, and lichens. This is a UNESCO-recognised biodiversity hotspot found nowhere outside southernmost South America.
• Lago Rupanco — The eastern terminus at Las Gaviotas sits on Lago Rupanco, the largest lake in the Los Lagos region by volume. Far less visited than Lago Todos los Santos, its wild southern shores feel genuinely off the tourist map.
• Volcán Casablanca (1,990 m) — Also referred to as Yate in some sources, this volcanic complex frames the route's southern skyline through the mid-valley section and reminds hikers that the entire landscape here sits on an active volcanic chain.

Best Time to Hike the Greater Patagonian Trail Section 21: Valle el Callao

The Los Lagos region sits where mild Pacific air meets the Andes in a system that produces heavy, reliable rainfall from April through September. Hiking Valle el Callao outside the Southern Hemisphere summer is not recommended for most hikers: river levels rise dramatically in winter, the Valdivian forest floor becomes impenetrably muddy, and boat operators on Lago Todos los Santos may not run services in off-season conditions. As of 2026, hikers report that climate variability in this region has increased the frequency of unsettled summer spells, making careful month selection more important than ever.

The hiking season runs from November to March:

• November: Early season — trails are drier than winter, wildflowers emerge, and other hikers are few. River levels remain moderately elevated from snowmelt. Nights are cold but manageable with three-season sleeping gear.
• December: Excellent conditions begin. Days lengthen to up to 16 hours of daylight, temperatures in the valley reach 12–20 °C, and boat operators are reliably active.
• January: Peak season. Warmest and statistically driest month, but also the busiest for accommodation in Petrohué. Book guesthouses in advance.
• February: The single best month to hike Section 21. Settled high-pressure systems are most common in February, river crossings are at their shallowest, and daylight remains ample. The valley's thermal springs are most accessible after the high-water period of November and December has eased.
• March: Conditions remain good into early March. Autumn storms can arrive from the third week onward; monitor forecasts carefully if hiking late in the month.

Avoid April through October entirely unless you have significant alpine expedition experience, whitewater crossing skills, and four-season kit capable of sustained wet cold.

Practical Information

Accommodation

Valle el Callao itself has no formal accommodation infrastructure. Wild camping is the only realistic option throughout the valley; treat it as fully self-supported wilderness travel. A freestanding tent capable of handling sustained wind and multi-day rain is essential.

At the section's endpoints:

• Petrohué (western start): Several guesthouses and cabañas operate near the lake and the Saltos. Expect to pay approximately €30–60 per person per night for basic accommodation with breakfast. Book well ahead for January travel.
• Las Gaviotas / Lago Rupanco (eastern end): Facilities are very limited at the trail terminus. A small number of family-run residenciales may be available in the wider Lago Rupanco area; confirm ahead of travel as availability changes seasonally.
• Puerto Varas (recommended pre-trail base): Hostels from approximately €15 per night, a full range of hotels, gear shops, and easy bus connections to Petrohué. Puerto Varas is the preferred base for most GPT hikers in the southern sections.
• Puerto Montt: A full range of urban accommodation and the nearest international connections, approximately 20 km from Puerto Varas.

Getting There & Back

The gateway to Section 21 is El Tepual Airport (PMC) in Puerto Montt, served by LATAM and Sky Airline from Santiago Arturo Merino Benítez (SCL). Flight time is approximately 1 hour 50 minutes. Puerto Montt is roughly 1,100 km south of Santiago by road.

Onward connections from Puerto Montt:

• Bus to Puerto Varas: approximately 20 minutes, frequent departures from the Puerto Montt bus terminal
• Bus or shuttle from Puerto Varas to Petrohué: approximately 50 km via Route 225, journey time around 1 hour
• Private fishing boat (bote) from Petrohué to the eastern Lago Todos los Santos landing: arrange locally in Petrohué the day before departure; travel time approximately 1.5–2 hours depending on conditions and the boat

To exit at Las Gaviotas on Lago Rupanco's south shore, a gravel road connects the terminus to the wider road network toward Osorno. Arrange pickup in advance or be prepared for a significant wait; there is no scheduled public transport from Las Gaviotas itself.

Permits & Fees

No dedicated GPT permit exists, but hikers passing through Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales must pay the CONAF entrance fee at the Petrohué station. As of 2026, rates for foreign adults are in the range of CLP 8,000–12,000 (approximately €8–12). Fees are subject to revision; verify current rates with CONAF (Corporación Nacional Forestal) before travel.

Wild camping within the national park is generally permitted in designated zones. Check with rangers at the Petrohué entrance for current regulations — CONAF periodically updates its camping policy within the park, and the rules for the Valle el Callao corridor specifically are worth confirming on arrival.

Gear & Packing List

Valle el Callao demands serious gear selection. The combination of remote terrain, river crossings, heavy Patagonian rainfall, and 3–5 days of full self-sufficiency means that every item in your pack must justify its weight. This is not a trail where you can improvise.

For a multi-day remote section of this character, a pack in the 40–65 litre range suits most hikers — large enough for a four-season tent, food, and full rain layers, compact enough to stay manageable when wading. For hikers treating Section 21 as part of a longer GPT thru-hike or a Patagonian expedition, a streamlined ultralight setup makes a meaningful difference accumulated over weeks. The Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Windrider is a strong choice for sustained wet conditions — its Dyneema construction sheds Patagonian rain effectively while keeping base weight low. For lighter loads or a faster traverse with a supported resupply, the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Windrider handles the job with fewer litres.

Hikers who prefer a traditional framed pack with load-transfer capability — useful when carrying five or more days of food — will find the Osprey Aether 65 reliable on rough terrain. The Deuter Aircontact Core 50+10 is another well-regarded option for heavier loads in a wet mountain environment, with the extendable collar providing useful flexibility on long food carries.

Essential items beyond the pack:

• Shelter: A freestanding four-season tent or a highly reliable trekking-pole shelter with a solid bathtub floor. Do not rely on tarps alone in the Callao valley's weather system.
• Rain layers: Waterproof jacket and trousers rated for sustained rain — non-negotiable. Patagonian precipitation can last days without break, and wet-cold is the primary hazard on this route.
• River-crossing footwear: Lightweight sandals or dedicated crossing shoes for the Río Callao wading sections. Crossing in trail shoes destroys foot comfort for the rest of the day.
• Navigation: Download the GPT GPX tracks from the official source and carry a dedicated GPS device or a fully offline phone map. There are no trail markers anywhere in the valley.
• Food: Carry all food for the full section plus one emergency weather day. There is no resupply between Petrohué and Las Gaviotas. Understanding how many calories you need on a full hiking day helps avoid under-packing — in cold, wet conditions the figure typically exceeds most hikers' estimates.
• Water treatment: Andean glacial streams are abundant throughout the valley; carry a filter or purification tablets as a backup.
• Emergency communication: A satellite communicator (Garmin inReach or SPOT) is strongly recommended. Cell coverage is absent throughout the section, and evacuation would require a helicopter or multi-day overland extraction.

For a comparison of the lightest pack options for extended backcountry routes, the best ultralight backpacks of 2026 covers seven sub-1 kg packs that perform well on demanding Southern Hemisphere terrain.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the Greater Patagonian Trail's volcanic landscapes and remote Andean corridors appeal to you, several other GPT sections deliver equally striking terrain across Chile's central and southern ranges. Each of the routes below traverses or encircles one of the Andes' most active volcanic systems — the defining feature of the trail's most dramatic portions.

• Greater Patagonian Trail Section 6: Volcán Descabezado (Chile) — A high-altitude volcanic traverse in the Maule region, with open ridgelines and commanding views across the Andean cordillera.
• Greater Patagonian Trail Section 8: Volcán Chillán (Chile) — Routes through the active Chillán volcanic complex and its associated hot spring resorts, with a contrasting blend of resort access and wilderness terrain.
• Greater Patagonian Trail Section 9: Volcán Antuco (Chile) — Circumnavigates Laguna del Laja beneath the dramatic Antuco cone in Chile's Biobío region, one of the most visually striking volcanic landscapes on the entire trail.

For hikers wanting a confidence-builder in remote point-to-point terrain before a Patagonian expedition, the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania offers comparable remoteness and similarly demanding mountain conditions in a more accessible European context.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time of year to hike Section 21 of the Greater Patagonian Trail?

The hiking season runs from November to March, with February being the single best month. High-pressure systems are most stable in February, river crossings in Valle el Callao are at their most manageable after earlier snowmelt, and daylight remains ample for long days on the trail. Avoid April through October: winter rain and swollen rivers make the valley dangerous, and boat operators on Lago Todos los Santos may not run services in off-season conditions.

How difficult is the Valle el Callao section of the GPT?

Section 21 is rated demanding and is suitable for experienced backcountry hikers only. The difficulty comes not from extreme altitude but from remoteness, the complete absence of trail markers or waypoints, multiple river crossings that can be waist-deep after rain, and the need to navigate dense Valdivian forest using downloaded GPX tracks. Strong wayfinding skills, river-crossing experience, and full self-sufficiency are essential prerequisites. This is not a route for first-time multi-day hikers.

How many kilometres per day should I plan for on Section 21?

Precise total distances are not officially published for this section, but the nature of GPT hiking in this corridor means most experienced hikers average 10–16 km per day on foot through the valley. Dense forest, multiple stream crossings, and route-finding in the absence of markers significantly reduce pace compared to open mountain terrain. Plan conservatively and build in at least one buffer day for weather or route-finding delays.

What accommodation is available on the Valle el Callao route?

There is no formal accommodation inside the valley. Wild camping is standard for the entire section; treat it as a fully self-supported wilderness traverse. Before and after the route, Puerto Varas is the recommended base, with hostels from approximately €15 per night and straightforward bus connections to Petrohué. At Petrohué, several guesthouses and cabañas operate from November to March at around €30–60 per person per night. Book ahead for January travel when demand peaks.

Do I need a permit to hike Greater Patagonian Trail Section 21?

No dedicated GPT permit exists, but hikers entering Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales must pay the CONAF entrance fee at the Petrohué station — approximately €8–12 for foreign adults as of 2026. Wild camping within the park is generally permitted in designated zones, but regulations are periodically updated. Confirm current rules with CONAF rangers at the Petrohué entrance before heading into the valley, as enforcement has become more consistent in recent seasons.