Greater Patagonian Trail Section 23: Parque Nacional Lago Puelo

Greater Patagonian Trail Section 23 is a point-to-point wilderness trail passing through Parque Nacional Lago Puelo in Argentine Patagonia. Part of the Greater Patagonian Trail — one of the world's longest and most remote long-distance hiking routes — this section traverses ancient Valdivian temperate rainforest and the shores of glacially carved Lago Puelo. Precise distance and elevation figures are not officially published for this section; the terrain is rugged and route-finding can be demanding, making it suitable for experienced backcountry hikers.

About the Greater Patagonian Trail Section 23: Parque Nacional Lago Puelo

The Greater Patagonian Trail (GPT) is an unofficial, volunteer-compiled through-hike stretching roughly 3,000 km through the Andes from the Atacama Desert in northern Chile to the lakes and fjords of southern Patagonia. Section 23 threads through Parque Nacional Lago Puelo, a 27,674-hectare protected area in the province of Chubut, Argentina, sitting at the southern edge of the Argentine Lake District. The park takes its name from its centrepiece: Lago Puelo, an intensely turquoise glacial lake whose southern arm crosses into Chile, making it one of the few binational lakes in Patagonia.

This section of the GPT is notable for its ecological richness. Lago Puelo National Park protects some of the most biodiverse temperate rainforest in South America, sheltering arrayán trees (Luma apiculata) with their distinctive cinnamon-coloured bark, ancient coihue beech forests, and rare Patagonian cypress. Pumas, huemul deer, pudú, and condors inhabit the park, though sightings require patience and early starts. The combination of lake scenery, dense native forest, river crossings and Andean backdrop makes Section 23 one of the most visually varied stretches of the entire GPT.

Because the GPT is maintained primarily by a global hiking community rather than a national trail authority, route conditions change from season to season. As of 2026, hikers should be aware that a trail on the eastern shore of Lago Puelo (track segment RH-TL-V@23-2.4) has been reported as nearly impassable due to past wildfire damage and lack of maintenance. The standard workaround is a combined bus and car transfer of approximately 30 km around the closed segment — from the Lago Puelo township to El Hoyo — before rejoining the route. Always download the most current GPX files from the official GPT resources before departure.

For those planning the entire GPT, Section 23 sits in the northern Patagonian stretch of the trail, connecting the lake district sections to the wilder terrain further south. Planning your pack weight carefully matters here: resupply opportunities are limited once you leave the Lago Puelo township, and river crossings can make wet-weather gear essential even in summer.

Route Overview & Stages

Because the GPT is a community-maintained route rather than a waymarked national trail, no single authority publishes a definitive stage breakdown with verified distances. The figures below are drawn from community-compiled GPT data and field reports. Treat them as planning estimates, not guaranteed measurements — conditions on the ground, particularly around the eastern shore bypass, can alter the practical distances considerably. Our recommendation: walk this section south-to-north if you are thru-hiking the GPT in its standard direction. If you are day-hiking or section-hiking, starting from the Lago Puelo township gives you the easiest access and the most reliable exit if weather turns.

Stage distances are community estimates only. Always verify current GPX tracks via the official GPT resources before hiking.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Lago Puelo — The centrepiece of the section: a glacially carved lake of extraordinary turquoise clarity, fed by Andean snowmelt and surrounded by forested slopes. The southern arm of the lake crosses the Chilean border, and on clear days the snowcapped peaks of the Andes form a dramatic backdrop.
• Arrayán Forest — Groves of Luma apiculata, the Chilean myrtle or arrayán, line the lake shores with their distinctive rust-and-silver bark. These ancient trees are characteristic of Valdivian temperate rainforest and create an otherworldly atmosphere at dawn and dusk.
• Cajón del Arroyo Derrumbe — A narrow river canyon that the trail threads through rocks and scrub before entering dense old-growth coihue beech forest. After a footbridge crossing, the terrain opens into flat ground with excellent wild camping options.
• Camino al Desemboque — The well-maintained alternative path used when high winds make lake crossing or the eastern shore impassable. Shaded by native forest, this track is a highlight in its own right and offers reliable footing in wet conditions.
• El Desemboque — The outlet point where Lago Puelo's waters drain toward Chile. A remote and scenic location accessible only on foot or by boat, offering solitude that is hard to find anywhere else in the Patagonian lake district.
• Patagonian Cypress Stands — Ancient Fitzroya cupressoides specimens, some over a thousand years old, grow in sheltered valleys within the park. These are among the oldest living organisms in South America and warrant a slow pace to appreciate.
• Condor Thermals — The ridgelines above the park are prime territory for Andean condors (Vultur gryphus). Morning hours above treeline give the best chance of watching these massive birds — wingspan up to 3.2 m — riding the first thermals.
• Lago Puelo Township — The small resort town on the park's northern edge serves as the practical base for this section. It has a handful of hostels, a supermarket, a park administration office, and bus connections to Esquel and Bariloche.

Best Time to Hike the Greater Patagonian Trail Section 23: Parque Nacional Lago Puelo

Patagonia's weather is notoriously variable, but Section 23 sits in the northern Argentine Lake District — a region that benefits from slightly more stable conditions than the southern GPT sections. As of 2026, the hiking season runs from late November through late March, with the shoulder months offering distinct trade-offs.

December and January bring the longest daylight hours (up to 16 hours) and the best chance of dry weather, but also the highest concentration of Argentine summer holidaymakers in the Lago Puelo township. River levels are at their lowest in January, making crossings safer. February is the single best month to hike this section: days remain long, temperatures in the forest average 18–22°C, rain frequency drops, and post-January crowds have thinned. The lake reaches its warmest temperature for swimming, and wildflowers are at their peak in open clearings.

March brings autumn colour to the beech forests — the coihue turns golden — and temperatures remain mild (12–18°C by day), but afternoon thunderstorms become more frequent and river levels begin to rise again. Early March is still very manageable; late March carries increasing risk of trail washouts.

When NOT to go: Avoid April through October. Snow can reach trail level from May, the eastern shore tracks become genuinely dangerous when saturated, and Parque Nacional Lago Puelo reduces ranger presence and boat services significantly outside peak season. A wet Patagonian winter in dense forest with no rescue infrastructure nearby is not a situation to enter lightly.

Practical Information

Accommodation

Camping is the primary overnight option once inside the national park boundaries. Signs along the Camino al Desemboque explicitly prohibit camping, so rely on designated sites:

• Camping at south shore of Lago Puelo — A well-positioned lakeside campsite within the park, the main overnight stop for through-hikers on this section. No fee structures are consistently published; bring Argentine pesos for any on-site ranger fees (typically ARS 2,000–5,000 per person per night, subject to inflation — verify current rates at the park entrance).
• Wild camping at Cajón del Arroyo Derrumbe — After the footbridge, flat ground in the coihue forest offers several sheltered pitches. No facilities.
• Lago Puelo township hostels — Several budget hostels and cabañas operate in the town, with dorm beds typically ranging €12–20 per night and private rooms €40–70. Book ahead for December–January. Options include Complejo Quelen Hue and several family-run posadas — confirm availability directly as the town's accommodation scene changes seasonally.

Getting There & Back

The nearest regional hub is Esquel Airport (EQS), approximately 110 km south of Lago Puelo, with domestic flights from Buenos Aires (Aeroparque, AEP) operated by Aerolíneas Argentinas and LADE. Flight time from Buenos Aires is around 2.5 hours. Alternatively, Bariloche (BRC) is 170 km north and has more frequent international connections via Buenos Aires; buses from Bariloche to Lago Puelo run daily and take approximately 2.5–3 hours.

From the Lago Puelo bus terminal, local services connect to El Hoyo (for the eastern-shore bypass) in under 30 minutes. Taxis and remises are also available. For the southern exit of the section, boat services across Lago Puelo to El Desemboque operate seasonally — confirm schedules at the park visitor centre, as wind and water levels can cancel services at short notice.

If you are hiking the full GPT, the trail connects north to the El Bolsón area (Section 22) and south toward Río Epuyén (Section 24). Hitchhiking is a practical supplement to buses in this part of Argentine Patagonia, particularly for the bypass segments.

Permits & Fees

Parque Nacional Lago Puelo is administered by Argentina's National Parks Administration (APN). As of 2026, foreign visitors pay an entrance fee collected at the park gate; Argentine residents pay a lower rate. Fees are subject to adjustment and are best confirmed directly with the park or at the Lago Puelo visitor centre before entry. There is no separate GPT-specific permit — the national park entrance covers the trail. Camping at designated sites may carry an additional per-night charge paid to rangers on-site.

No border-crossing permit is required to reach El Desemboque, as this point is still within Argentine territory, but hikers intending to cross into Chile via the lake's southern arm must hold a valid Chilean entry stamp and notify Argentine border police (Gendarmería) in advance. Most GPT through-hikers make this crossing at dedicated border posts further south.

Gear & Packing List

The terrain in Section 23 demands a pack that can handle multi-day backcountry conditions: river crossings, dense forest, and Patagonian wind gusts. Given that no resupply is possible once inside the park, carry enough food for the full section plus one emergency day.

Pack selection: For a through-hiking approach to the GPT, a 40–55 L pack is the practical sweet spot. The Zpacks Arc Haul Ultra 40L excels for those committed to ultralight travel — at around 510 g it carries up to 9 kg of kit comfortably, leaving margin for the mandatory wet-weather layer. Hikers who prefer a framed carry with more volume should consider the Osprey Aether 65, which handles heavier food loads over multi-day river-crossing terrain. For a middle-ground option with outstanding hipbelt support, the Deuter Aircontact Lite 45+10 has proven reliable on Patagonian through-hikes.

Essential items for this section:

• Waterproof shell jacket and trousers — Patagonian weather can deliver horizontal rain even in February. A jacket rated at least 20,000 mm hydrostatic head is not overkill.
• Trekking poles — Essential for the rocky sections of Cajón del Arroyo Derrumbe and for stability during river crossings. Unbuckle your hipbelt before wading.
• Water filter or purification tablets — Water sources are abundant but treat all lake and stream water. A squeeze filter is the lightest option.
• Gaiters — Low gaiters keep mud and debris out of footwear on the wetter forest tracks.
• Navigation: GPX-capable device or phone with offline maps — Waymarking is absent on most GPT sections. Download GPT23 tracks from the community GPT resources before leaving cell coverage.
• Insect repellent — Tabanos (horseflies) are aggressive in December–January near water. DEET-based repellent and a head net are worth their weight.
• Calorie-dense food — River crossings and rough terrain burn more energy than flat trails. See our guide on how many calories you need on a full hiking day to plan your food budget accurately.

Similar Trails You Might Like

Argentine Patagonia offers some of the finest multi-day hiking in the southern hemisphere. If Section 23 of the GPT appeals to you, these nearby routes share the same combination of glacial lakes, native beech forest, and Andean drama — but with more established infrastructure and clearer waymarking, making them good options for hikers who want a taste of the region before committing to the GPT's full remoteness. For a completely different style of Andean scenery — steep mountain villages, dramatic ridgeline passes, and a rich local culture — the Theth to Valbona hike in Albania is a fascinating international comparison.

• Vuelta al Huemul (Argentina) — A challenging 4-day circuit near El Chaltén that loops around Cerro Huemul, crossing glacial moraines and high passes with views of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. More technically demanding than Section 23 but on well-marked trails.
• Sendero Laguna de los Tres (Argentina) — The iconic day hike above El Chaltén to a glacial lake directly below Cerro Fitz Roy. Less remote than the GPT but a superb introduction to Patagonian scenery for those with limited time.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time of year to hike GPT Section 23?
February is the optimal month. Daylight hours remain long (14–15 hours), temperatures in the forest average 18–22°C, river levels are at their seasonal low making crossings safer, and the post-January crowds in the Lago Puelo township have thinned. The window from late November to mid-March is broadly suitable, but avoid April onward when snow, rising rivers, and reduced park services create genuine safety risks.

How difficult is Greater Patagonian Trail Section 23?
This section is appropriate for experienced backcountry hikers comfortable with route-finding using GPX tracks, river crossings without fixed bridges, and multi-day remote camping. There are no waymarkers on most GPT sections, the eastern shore trail is currently impassable and requires a road bypass, and Patagonian weather demands competent navigation and self-rescue awareness. First-time Patagonian hikers are better served by established circuits like the Huemul before tackling the GPT.

How far can I expect to hike per day on this section?
Expect 15–20 km per day on the trail segments, less when the terrain is rough or river crossings are involved. The eastern shore bypass adds approximately 30 km via road transfer that does not count as hiking distance. Plan conservatively: dense forest, rocky canyons, and afternoon Patagonian winds all slow progress relative to open-mountain terrain.

What accommodation is available on GPT Section 23?
Accommodation falls into two categories: wild camping and designated park campsites within Parque Nacional Lago Puelo, and hostels or cabañas in the Lago Puelo township at the section's northern end. There are no staffed mountain huts on this section. Carry a freestanding tent capable of handling wind and rain, and budget for one or two nights in the township for resupply and rest. Camping is explicitly prohibited along the Camino al Desemboque track.

Do I need a permit to hike GPT Section 23?
Yes. Parque Nacional Lago Puelo charges an entrance fee administered by Argentina's National Parks Administration (APN), with higher rates for foreign visitors. As of 2026 the fee is paid at the park gate; amounts are subject to Argentina's ongoing inflation adjustments, so confirm the current rate at the visitor centre in the Lago Puelo township. No separate GPT-specific permit is required. Hikers intending to cross into Chile via the lake's southern arm must arrange border formalities with Gendarmería in advance — this applies to the full GPT crossing, not to Section 23 alone.

For comprehensive route data, GPX downloads, and the community-maintained section notes, visit the Greater Patagonian Trail official resource on Wikiexplora.