Via Alpina Purple A39

Via Alpina Purple A39 is a demanding point-to-point day stage of the International Walking Network's Via Alpina Purple Trail in Salzburg, Austria, climbing approximately 1,329 m of elevation from the market town of Maria Alm (802 m) to the Riemannhaus alpine hut (2,177 m) on the rim of the Steinerne Meer plateau. Rated difficulty II, this roughly 12 km stage takes around 4.5 hours and rewards hikers with one of the most dramatic arrivals in the entire 66-stage Purple Trail.

About the Via Alpina Purple A39

Stage A39 of the Via Alpina Purple Trail connects the pilgrimage village of Maria Alm in the Salzburg Alps to the Riemannhaus, a mountain hut perched at 2,177 m on the western edge of the Steinernes Meer — the "Stone Sea" — one of Austria's most extraordinary high-altitude karst plateaus. The stage is part of the Via Alpina Purple Trail, the longest of the five Via Alpina routes, stretching 2,200 km from Trieste in Italy through Slovenia, Austria and into Germany over 66 stages. As a member of the International Walking Network (IWN), the Via Alpina ranks among the most significant long-distance hiking routes in the world.

The Steinernes Meer itself is a UNESCO-adjacent natural wonder: a vast limestone plateau spanning roughly 30 km², sitting above 2,000 m and straddling the Austrian–German border in the Berchtesgaden Alps. Stage A39 is effectively the gateway climb onto this plateau from the Austrian side. From the valley floor the trail follows the Grießbach stream through lush forest before breaking into open alpine terrain and ascending steeply to the hut. The elevation change of 1,329 m in a single stage makes this one of the more physically demanding links in the Purple Trail. For hikers thru-hiking the full Purple Trail, it is also a turning point — the moment the route leaves the lower valley worlds definitively behind and commits to high alpine terrain for several stages ahead.

Maria Alm itself is worth arriving a day early to explore. The Gothic parish church of Maria Alm with its slender 87 m spire is the highest church tower in the Salzburg region and has been a pilgrimage site since the 15th century. The village lies in the Salzburger Sportwelt ski region and transforms in summer into a hiking hub with well-marked trail networks, making it an excellent base for acclimatising before the big climb.

Route Overview & Stages

Stage A39 is a single-day ascent with no true intermediate waypoints at which to stop overnight. The route divides naturally into three movement phases: a valley walk, a forested lower climb, and a steep upper alpine section. The table below breaks down the key segments.

The route is waymarked throughout with the red-white-red Via Alpina Purple Trail markers. From Maria Alm the path is straightforward to follow: head east along the Grießbach stream, then climb persistently south-east through the Riemannkehre switchbacks to the hut. The descent rate for the route is minimal — this is almost entirely an ascent stage. Total elevation loss is roughly 30 m (minor undulations in the valley section). Allow 4 hours 15 minutes to 5 hours depending on your pace and load.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Parish Church of Maria Alm — The 87 m Gothic spire is the tallest in the Salzburg region and has anchored this market village since the 15th century. Arriving the evening before your climb and visiting the church sets the historical context for the route.
• Grießbach Stream Valley — The first 3 km of trail follows the Grießbach through shaded mixed forest, passing small waterfalls and clear mountain pools. Fill water bottles here; reliable natural sources become sparse above 1,700 m.
• Riemannkehre Switchbacks — The steep zigzag section above the treeline is technically straightforward but aerobically demanding. The grade averages 20–25% across several hundred metres of altitude, with loose scree on sections facing south.
• Steinernes Meer Rim View — As you crest the final rise before the Riemannhaus, the full scale of the Steinernes Meer karst plateau opens up — a moonscape of grey-white limestone slabs stretching east into Bavaria, Germany. Few alpine approaches in Austria deliver this kind of visual payoff.
• Riemannhaus Hut (2,177 m) — Operated by the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV), the Riemannhaus has offered shelter since 1884 and was substantially renovated in the 2000s. It seats 130 and offers dormitory beds, private rooms, hot meals and a famous panoramic terrace facing the Hochkönig massif to the south-west.
• Hochkönig Panorama — The Hochkönig (2,941 m), Austria's most northerly 2,900 m peak, dominates the south-western skyline from the Riemannhaus terrace. The glaciated summit and its permanent snowfield are visible from late April through October.
• Karst Geology of the Steinernes Meer — The plateau is a textbook example of alpine karst: sinkholes (dolines), dry channels, and polished limestone pavements formed by thousands of years of chemical weathering. The terrain feels more like Iceland than the Austrian Alps and rewards curious hikers willing to explore off-trail.
• Onward Link to Stage A40 (Kärlingerhaus) — The Riemannhaus is not just a destination — it is the launch pad for Stage A40, which traverses the full breadth of the Steinernes Meer plateau to the Kärlingerhaus on the German side. Staying overnight positions you perfectly for this continuation.

Best Time to Hike the Via Alpina Purple A39

As of 2026, Stage A39 is accessible between mid-June and early October, with the upper section above 1,800 m typically snow-free from late June onwards. The single best month for this stage is July, when lingering snow has cleared from the switchbacks, alpine flowers are at peak bloom in the meadows below the Riemannhaus, and daylight extends past 21:00 giving ample time to ascend without rushing.

Afternoon thunderstorms are the primary weather hazard from July to August. Aim to reach the Riemannhaus by 13:00–14:00 to avoid being caught on the exposed upper switchbacks during electrical storms. The Berchtesgaden Alps receive significant precipitation year-round; a waterproof shell is non-negotiable regardless of month.

Practical Information

Accommodation

The Riemannhaus (2,177 m), operated by the Österreichischer Alpenverein (ÖAV — Austrian Alpine Club), is the sole overnight option on stage A39 itself. It offers:

• Matratzenlager (dormitory) — approx. €30–€38 per person including breakfast; ÖAV/DAV members receive a discount of around €9
• Zimmer (private rooms) — approx. €50–€60 per person half-board; limited availability, book early in July–August
• Dinner — traditional Austrian mountain food (Gulasch, Käsespätzle, Apfelstrudel); evening meal approx. €12–€18
• Camping — not permitted on the plateau; the karst terrain is a protected natural environment

In Maria Alm (start point), accommodation ranges from guesthouses (~€45–€70 per person B&B) to larger hotels serving the ski/hiking market (~€90–€150). The village is well-supplied with supermarkets for last-minute provisions.

Getting There & Back

To Maria Alm: The nearest mainline railway station is Zell am See, approximately 20 km west of Maria Alm and served by direct trains from Salzburg (50 min, ~€12) and Vienna (3 h 30 min, ~€45). From Zell am See, the regional Postbus 560 connects to Maria Alm in about 30 minutes. By car, Maria Alm is 70 km south of Salzburg Airport (SZG) via the A10 motorway — roughly 55 minutes. Salzburg Airport has connections to major European hubs including London, Amsterdam and Frankfurt.

From the Riemannhaus: There is no road access to the Riemannhaus; you descend the same trail to Maria Alm (2 h 30 min down) or continue on Stage A40 across the Steinernes Meer plateau to the Kärlingerhaus on the German side. From the Kärlingerhaus, hikers can descend to Königssee and take the boat to Schönau, connecting onward to Berchtesgaden Bahnhof.

Permits & Fees

No permits are required for Stage A39. The trail crosses no fee zones or national park core zones on the Austrian approach. Camping is prohibited above the treeline in this area under Salzburg provincial nature protection rules — fines can reach €200. An ÖAV membership (approx. €67/year for adults in 2026) is not required but significantly reduces hut fees and covers mountain rescue insurance, making it worthwhile for anyone planning multiple alpine hut nights.

Gear & Packing List

Stage A39 is a half-day alpine ascent with 1,329 m of climbing — not a technical route, but one where poor gear choices become punishing. The right backpack volume matters: for a one-night hut stage you want 35–50 litres to carry overnight essentials without over-packing for the climb. If you are thru-hiking the Purple Trail and carrying multi-day supplies, a 50–65 litre pack is appropriate.

For a lightweight setup without sacrificing comfort on the steep Riemannkehre switchbacks, consider the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Windrider (ultralight 40 L option) or the Deuter Aircontact Lite 45+10 for those wanting a more structured carry. If you are continuing the full Purple Trail with multiple overnight stages, the Osprey Aether 65 offers the capacity for extended hut-to-hut touring.

Essential kit for Stage A39:

• Footwear — stiff-soled mountain boots with ankle support; trail runners are unsuitable on wet limestone scree above 1,800 m
• Waterproof shell — non-negotiable; alpine weather on the Steinernes Meer can change within 30 minutes
• Insulating layer — even in July, the Riemannhaus terrace at 2,177 m drops to 5–8 °C after sunset
• Trekking poles — strongly recommended for the descent; the 1,300 m loss on the return is hard on knees on loose terrain
• Navigation — the ÖAV map sheet 10/1 (Steinernes Meer) at 1:25,000 or a downloaded offline GPS track; the plateau in cloud can be disorienting
• Water (2 L) — fill thoroughly at the Grießbach; no reliable sources in the final 4 km to the hut
• Sun protection — above treeline UV intensity is significantly higher; SPF 50+ and glacier glasses
• First-aid kit & emergency bivouac — standard alpine kit; mountain rescue in the Berchtesgaden Alps is excellent but response can take 30–90 minutes

For calorie planning on a climb of this intensity, see our guide on how many calories you need hiking a full day — a 1,300 m ascent with a loaded pack can burn 600–900 kcal above your basal rate. Pack accordingly. If you are also considering ultralight packing strategies for multi-day hut tours, the best ultralight backpacks of 2026 roundup covers tested options across all load ranges.

Similar Trails You Might Like

Stage A39 sits within a rich network of Austrian alpine routes that share its character: dramatic hut-to-hut climbing, high-altitude karst and glacier terrain, and the satisfaction of earning big views on foot. If you enjoy this style of hiking, the following routes in Austria are all worth exploring — from the Stubai Alps to the Eagle's Walk traversing Tyrol.

• Stubaier Höhenweg (Austria) — A classic 10-stage hut circuit in the Stubai Alps south of Innsbruck, with sustained high-altitude walking above 2,500 m and glacier views throughout.
• Berliner Höhenweg Zustieg Ahornbahn (Austria) — The approach link into the Berliner Höhenweg, one of the Zillertal's most celebrated high-level traverses.
• Adlerweg (Austria) — The Eagle's Walk: a 413 km route crossing the full breadth of Tyrol from St. Johann to St. Anton, mixing valley sections with dramatic alpine crossings.
• JK01 (Austria, 720 km) — A long-distance traverse of the Austrian Alps combining historical pilgrim routes with high alpine terrain.
• JK02 (Austria, 720 km) — A parallel long-distance route through Austria offering an alternative perspective on the same mountain ranges.

For a contrasting experience combining dramatic gorge hiking with an Adriatic-to-Alps feel, the Theth to Valbona hike in Albania is one of the finest single-day mountain crossings in Europe and makes an excellent complement to an Alpine season.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike Via Alpina Purple A39?

The best month is July. By early July the snow has cleared from the upper switchbacks, alpine flowers are in full bloom across the meadows below the Riemannhaus, and long daylight hours give a comfortable ascent window. The stage is open from mid-June to mid-October, but late June can still carry snow above 1,800 m and October brings early frost and potential closures at the Riemannhaus hut.

How difficult is Stage A39?

Stage A39 is rated Difficulty II on the Via Alpina scale — suitable for fit hikers with good mountain boots and basic alpine experience, but not requiring technical climbing skills. The primary challenge is the 1,329 m of sustained elevation gain concentrated into roughly 10 km of uphill walking, with a steep loose-scree section in the upper Riemannkehre switchbacks. It is not a suitable stage for beginners or those with knee problems.

How far is the daily distance and how long does it take?

The stage covers approximately 12 km point-to-point from Maria Alm (802 m) to the Riemannhaus (2,177 m). Walking time is 4 hours 15 minutes to 5 hours for a fit hiker carrying a day pack; allow 5.5–6 hours with a loaded multi-day pack. There is no halfway rest point with facilities, so bring sufficient food and water from Maria Alm. The descent (if returning the same way) takes approximately 2 hours 30 minutes.

What accommodation is available on Stage A39?

The only accommodation on the stage itself is the Riemannhaus (2,177 m), operated by the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV). It offers dormitory beds from approximately €30–€38 per person (including breakfast) and a limited number of private rooms from €50–€60 half-board. ÖAV and DAV members receive a discount. Booking ahead is essential in July and August — the hut fills quickly and walk-ins are often turned away in peak season.

Do I need any permits to hike Via Alpina Purple A39?

No permits are required for Stage A39. The trail is freely accessible and crosses no national park core zones on the Austrian ascent. However, camping above the treeline is prohibited under Salzburg provincial nature protection regulations. The stage is maintained by the Austrian Alpine Club in cooperation with the Via Alpina network; joining the ÖAV (approx. €67/year) is optional but reduces hut fees significantly and includes mountain rescue coverage across the Alps.