Via Alpina Red R136

The Via Alpina Red R136 is a roughly 16 km point-to-point mountain stage in the Cottian Alps of Piedmont, Italy, climbing from Chialvetta in the Valle Maira to Pontebernardo in the Valle Stura di Demonte. Crossing the Colle del Mulo at about 2,527 m, it gains close to 900 m of elevation in a single day and is rated moderate, rewarding hikers with the wide alpine pastures of the Gardetta plateau.

About the Via Alpina Red R136

The Via Alpina Red R136 is stage 316 of the Red Trail, the longest of the five colour-coded Via Alpina routes. Created in 2000 by public and private organisations from across the Alps, the Via Alpina network links eight countries — Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, Italy, France and Monaco — through five trails distinguished by colour. The Red Trail alone strings together 161 documented stages, running from Muggia near Trieste all the way to the Palais de Monaco on the Mediterranean coast.

R136 sits deep in the Italian section of that journey, in the heart of the Cottian Alps where the Valle Maira and the Valle Stura di Demonte meet at high passes. The stage connects the hamlet of Chialvetta, a cluster of stone houses in the upper Maira valley, with Pontebernardo, a small village on the road that climbs toward the Colle della Maddalena and the French border. The official Via Alpina record for the route, maintained by via-alpina.org, simply summarises it as “Chialvetta — Pontebernardo,” but the walking between those two points covers some of the most unspoilt pastoral high country in the western Alps.

What makes this stage memorable is the crossing of the Colle del Mulo and the traverse of the Gardetta plateau, a broad upland of grassland, karst hollows and old military tracks that once formed part of the Vallo Alpino fortifications. The path is well graded, follows historic mule trails for much of its length, and never requires technical scrambling, which makes it accessible to fit walkers with a head for sustained ascent. For anyone tackling the Red Trail in sections, R136 is a satisfying day that bridges two distinct valley cultures, each with its own Occitan-speaking heritage.

Route Overview & Stages

R136 is a single Via Alpina stage, but it breaks naturally into three movements: the climb out of the Maira valley, the high crossing of the Colle del Mulo and Gardetta plateau, and the descent into the Stura valley. The table below outlines those segments with approximate distances and elevation gains; figures are estimates based on the terrain, as the official Via Alpina entry does not publish a precise distance.

The whole stage typically takes 5 to 6 hours of walking at a steady pace, plus stops. Because the high section sits above 2,400 m for several kilometres, most of the effort is front-loaded into the morning climb, leaving a long but knee-testing descent for the afternoon. Carrying enough water is wise, as the plateau has few reliable sources once you leave the valley springs behind.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Chialvetta — A beautifully preserved Occitan hamlet at around 1,650 m in the upper Valle Maira, with stone houses, a small ethnographic museum and a tradition of family-run mountain inns.
• Vallone di Unerzio — The wooded side valley that carries the trail up from Chialvetta, lined with larch and dotted with old grange (mountain farm) buildings.
• Gardetta plateau (Altopiano della Gardetta) — A vast karst upland of grassland and shallow basins around 2,300–2,400 m, considered one of the finest high pastures in the Cottian Alps.
• Rocca la Meja — The dramatic dolomitic peak rising to 2,831 m that dominates the skyline above the plateau and is often called the “Matterhorn of Valle Maira.”
• Colle del Mulo — The 2,527 m pass marking the watershed between the Maira and Stura valleys and the high point of the stage, threaded by old military roads.
• Vallo Alpino fortifications — Concrete bunkers, barracks and gun positions built in the 1930s and 1940s, scattered across the plateau and the pass area as relics of the Italian Alpine defensive line.
• Vallone di Pontebernardo — The long descent valley on the Stura side, rich in summer wildflowers and grazing flocks tended by transhumant shepherds.
• Pontebernardo — A tiny village in the Valle Stura di Demonte at about 1,300 m, home to a Centro Cicas pastoral interpretation centre celebrating the local sheep-herding economy.

Best Time to Hike the Via Alpina Red R136

The hiking window for R136 is short and weather-dependent because the Colle del Mulo and the Gardetta plateau hold snow well into early summer. The reliable season runs from late June to late September. In a normal year the pass clears of significant snow by mid-June, but cool springs can keep north-facing slopes white into the first week of July.

The single best month is July. By then the snow has gone from the high pastures, the alpine flowers on the Gardetta plateau are at their peak, daytime temperatures on the valley floors sit comfortably around 22–26 C, and the high crossing stays mild. As of 2026, mountain refuges and valley inns in the Valle Maira and Valle Stura are fully staffed from late June through mid-September, so July also guarantees the widest choice of accommodation and meals.

August is equally walkable but busier, with Italian holidaymakers filling the valleys and afternoon thunderstorms more frequent — aim to be over the pass before midday. September brings cooler, clearer air and quieter trails, ideal for photographers, though refuge services begin winding down toward the end of the month. Avoid the shoulder months of May and October, when fresh snow, fog and icy ground on the pass can make the crossing genuinely dangerous for unequipped walkers.

Practical Information

Accommodation

You can sleep at either end of the stage and within easy reach of the route. In Chialvetta, family-run locande (mountain inns) offer half-board for roughly 45–60 EUR per person, with dinner showcasing Valle Maira specialities. On or near the high plateau, the Rifugio della Gardetta provides dormitory bunks at around 25–30 EUR for a bed and roughly 25 EUR for dinner and breakfast, making a midway overnight possible if you want to split the day. In Pontebernardo and nearby Pietraporzio in the Valle Stura, guesthouses and a small refuge charge in the same 45–60 EUR half-board range. Wild camping is restricted in Italy above the tree line, so plan around the refuges; if you do carry a tent for emergencies, choose a light setup and keep it discreet. A well-fitted pack such as the 2400 Windrider makes carrying hut gear over the pass far more comfortable.

Getting There & Back

The gateway town is Cuneo, served by regular trains from Turin (Torino Porta Nuova) in about 1 hour 20 minutes. The nearest international airport is Turin–Caselle (TRN), roughly 2 hours by road from the trailheads; Nice Côte d’Azur (NCE) is an alternative for those approaching from the French side. From Cuneo, regional buses run up the Valle Maira toward Acceglio and Chialvetta and up the Valle Stura toward Pontebernardo and Pietraporzio, but services are limited to a few departures a day and are sparser outside July and August. Driving and parking at Chialvetta, then arranging a return bus or taxi from Pontebernardo, is the most flexible option. Check the regional operator Grandabus for current valley timetables before you travel.

Permits & Fees

No permit or entry fee is required to walk R136. The trail crosses open mountain terrain and the Parco Naturale del Marguareis lies further south, so there are no access restrictions on this stage. Your only costs are accommodation, meals and transport. Refuge bookings are strongly recommended in July and August, when beds fill quickly; most refuges accept reservations by phone or email and may ask for a small deposit. The official stage record and contact details are listed on the via-alpina.org stage 316 page.

Gear & Packing List

R136 is a high alpine day, so pack for fast weather changes even in July. Essentials include sturdy boots with good ankle support for the rocky descent into the Stura valley, trekking poles to save your knees over the 1,000 m drop, a windproof and waterproof shell for the exposed pass, and at least 1.5–2 litres of water capacity given the dry plateau. Sun protection is critical above the tree line, and a warm layer is worth its weight when wind funnels across the Colle del Mulo.

For a single stage you want a light, well-ventilated pack: the ADV Skin 12 suits fast-and-light day hikers, while the Atmos AG 50 or the larger 3400 Windrider work better if you are linking several Red Trail stages with hut gear and a few days of supplies. If you are weighing up your options, our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026 compares seven tested packs across comfort and capacity. Because the climb burns serious energy, plan your food carefully — our guide to how many calories you need hiking a full day helps you avoid bonking on the long ascent to the pass.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the high-alpine character of R136 appeals, Italy’s Dolomites offer some of the most celebrated multi-day routes in Europe, with dramatic limestone scenery and a dense network of refuges. The trails below range from week-long traverses to single signature stages, all suited to walkers who enjoyed the pass-crossing rhythm of the Via Alpina. For a contrasting border-crossing experience, our guide on how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania covers a famous one-day pass walk in the Accursed Mountains.

• Alta Via n. 2 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 2 (Italy), 185 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - XI tappa (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - X tappa (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 9 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 9 (Italy), 140 km

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike the Via Alpina Red R136?
July is the best month. By then snow has cleared from the Colle del Mulo at 2,527 m and the Gardetta plateau, alpine flowers are in full bloom, and refuges in the Valle Maira and Valle Stura are fully open. August is also good but busier with afternoon storms, while late June and September offer quieter trails with a small risk of lingering or early snow.

How difficult is the Via Alpina Red R136?
The stage is rated moderate. It involves roughly 900 m of ascent and a long descent of about 1,000 m over around 16 km, with no technical climbing or exposure. The path follows graded mule and military tracks throughout. The main challenges are the sustained morning climb, the high altitude above 2,400 m on the plateau, and the knee-testing drop into Pontebernardo.

How far is the Via Alpina Red R136 and how long does it take?
The official Via Alpina record does not publish a precise distance, but the Chialvetta-to-Pontebernardo crossing is approximately 16 km. Most walkers complete it in 5 to 6 hours of moving time plus rest stops, making it a full but manageable single day. Splitting it with an overnight at the Rifugio della Gardetta is an easy way to lighten the effort.

Where can I stay along the Via Alpina Red R136?
You can overnight at family-run inns in Chialvetta for roughly 45–60 EUR half-board, at the Rifugio della Gardetta on the plateau for around 25–30 EUR a bed plus meals, or in guesthouses around Pontebernardo and Pietraporzio in the Valle Stura at similar half-board prices. Book ahead in July and August. Wild camping above the tree line is restricted, so plan around the refuges.

Do I need a permit to hike the Via Alpina Red R136?
No permit or fee is required. The stage crosses open mountain pastures and passes with no access restrictions, so your only costs are accommodation, meals and transport. Refuge reservations are recommended in peak summer because beds fill fast, and most huts take bookings by phone or email, sometimes with a small deposit to secure your place.