Via Alpina Red R143

The Via Alpina Red R143 is roughly a 13 km point-to-point mountain stage in the Maritime Alps of Piedmont, Italy, climbing about 900 m of elevation as it links Rifugio Morelli-Buzzi to Rifugio Ellena-Soria. Rated demanding, it threads high passes beneath the Argentera massif on one of the wildest sections of the 161-stage Red Trail.

About the Via Alpina Red R143

The Via Alpina Red Trail is the longest of the five colour-coded Via Alpina routes, running 161 stages and more than 2,500 km from Muggia near Trieste to the Palais Princier in Monaco. Stage R143 falls deep inside the Italian Maritime Alps, the southernmost high range of the Alpine arc, where granite peaks rise within sight of the Mediterranean. The stage connects two of the area's classic mountain refuges, Rifugio Morelli-Buzzi (2,351 m) and Rifugio Ellena-Soria (1,840 m), and sits almost entirely within the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime.

The Via Alpina network was created in 2000 by organisations from eight Alpine nations and received European Union funding between 2001 and 2008. Since January 2014 it has been coordinated by CIPRA in Liechtenstein. The Red Trail is the only one of the five routes to cross all eight Alpine countries: Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, Italy, France and Monaco. R143 represents the trail's final Italian act before it crosses the watershed toward the French Mercantour and the coast.

This is high, committing terrain. The route crosses a pass above 2,400 m and descends through glacially sculpted valleys studded with tarns. Snow can linger on north-facing passes into early July, and there is no road access between the two refuges, so the stage is genuinely a wilderness day. Hikers tackling R143 typically do so as part of a multi-day Maritime Alps traverse rather than a standalone outing.

Route Overview & Stages

R143 is a single Via Alpina stage, but it is useful to break it into its three working segments. The figures below are approximate working values for planning; verify them against the official stage description before you set out.

Total moving time runs to roughly six to seven hours for a fit hiker, including breaks. Because both ends are staffed refuges open only in summer, the stage has a fixed seasonal window. Hikers planning the full Maritime Alps section often pair R143 with the adjacent R142 and R144 stages to build a three- or four-day loop based on Terme di Valdieri.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Rifugio Morelli-Buzzi (2,351 m) — the high starting refuge, perched beneath the north face of Monte Argentera, the highest peak in the Maritime Alps at 3,297 m.
• Monte Argentera massif — the granite crown of the range; its twin summits dominate the skyline for the first hour of walking.
• Colletto del Valasco — the high pass that divides the two valleys, a natural rest stop with sweeping views of the surrounding cirques.
• Lago del Valasco — a broad, shallow glacial lake set on a stepped terrace, one of the most photographed corners of the park.
• Casa di Caccia di Valasco — a 19th-century royal hunting lodge built for King Vittorio Emanuele II, now a striking stone landmark in the high meadows.
• Vallone della Barra — a quiet hanging valley carpeted with rhododendron and alpenrose in midsummer.
• Rifugio Ellena-Soria (1,840 m) — the day's terminus, gateway to the Gelas group and the French frontier.
• Maritime Alps wildlife — the park holds Europe's densest chamois population, alongside ibex, golden eagles and the occasional grey wolf.

Best Time to Hike the Via Alpina Red R143

The realistic season runs from late June to late September, dictated by snow on the high pass and the opening dates of the two refuges. In June, north-facing slopes below the Colletto del Valasco can still hold consolidated snow, and an ice axe or microspikes may be useful for the first fortnight of the month. By July the route is usually clear, wildflowers peak in the high meadows, and long daylight makes the six-to-seven-hour day comfortable.

The single best month is July. As of 2026, refuge wardens in the Maritime Alps report the most stable snow-free conditions and the richest alpine flora from early July, before the August holiday crowds fill the huts. August brings warm, settled weather but also the heaviest refuge bookings and a higher chance of afternoon thunderstorms rolling in off the Mediterranean. September offers crisp air, clear long-range views and quieter trails, though refuges begin winding down toward the end of the month and overnight temperatures at 2,000 m can drop below freezing. Whatever month you choose, start early: convective storms in this range typically build after 14:00.

Practical Information

Accommodation

Both ends of R143 are CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) mountain refuges, and there is no village in between, so an overnight at one or both huts is effectively mandatory. A bunk in a shared dormitory typically costs €25–30 per person per night in 2026, with CAI and reciprocal-club members paying a reduced rate. Half-board, which includes a hearty dinner and breakfast, generally runs €55–70 per person. Both Rifugio Morelli-Buzzi and Rifugio Ellena-Soria are staffed only in summer, and beds must be reserved in advance by phone or email, especially in August. Wild camping is restricted inside the national park; bivouacking is tolerated only above the tree line for a single night, pitched after dusk and struck at dawn. Carry cash, as card payment is unreliable at altitude.

Getting There & Back

The gateway town is Cuneo, served by regular trains from Turin (around 1 hour 30 minutes). From Cuneo, seasonal buses run up the Valle Gesso to Terme di Valdieri, the trailhead village for the refuge approaches, in roughly an hour; service is sparse outside July and August, so check timetables carefully or arrange a shared transfer. The nearest major airports are Turin (about 2 hours 30 minutes by road) and Nice in France (about 2 hours 45 minutes via the Tende pass). From Terme di Valdieri it is a half-day walk up to Rifugio Morelli-Buzzi, so most hikers spend a night there before starting R143.

Permits & Fees

No permit is required to walk R143, and entry to the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime is free. The only mandatory costs are refuge fees. Drones, open fires and off-trail camping are prohibited within the park boundary, and dogs must be kept on a lead to protect the chamois and ibex herds. Always sign the refuge logbook so wardens know who is on the high trails.

Gear & Packing List

R143 is a high-mountain hut-to-hut day, so you can travel light but must pack for fast-changing weather above 2,000 m. A 35–50 litre pack is ideal: large enough for a sleeping-bag liner, warm layers and a day's food, small enough to move quickly on the climb to the pass. The Abisko Hike 35 suits a streamlined hut traverse, while the larger Aircontact Lite 45+10 gives room if you are linking several Maritime Alps stages. Ultralight hikers chasing a sub-kilo pack often choose the 2400 Windrider.

Essentials include a waterproof shell, an insulated mid-layer, sturdy boots with ankle support for the rocky pass, trekking poles, 2 litres of water capacity, sun protection and a headtorch. A sleeping-bag liner is required at most CAI refuges. Because the only resupply is the refuge kitchens, plan your trail snacks deliberately — our guide to how many calories you need hiking a full day helps you avoid carrying too much or bonking on the climb. If you are still choosing a pack for an alpine traverse, our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026 compares seven tested options.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the high, hut-linked character of R143 appeals, Italy's Dolomite high routes offer the same alpine grandeur over longer multi-day itineraries with denser refuge networks. These Alta Via traverses are natural next steps for anyone building out an Italian mountain season.

• Alta Via n. 2 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 2 (Italy), 185 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - XI tappa (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - X tappa (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 9 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 9 (Italy), 140 km

For a wilder, less-trodden cross-border experience closer in spirit to the Maritime Alps, read our guide on how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike the Via Alpina Red R143?

July is the best month. The high pass below the Colletto del Valasco is reliably clear of snow, the two refuges are fully staffed, daylight is long, and the alpine meadows are in full flower. June can still hold snow on north-facing slopes, while September is quieter and crisp but colder, with refuges beginning to close toward month's end.

How difficult is the R143 stage?

R143 is a demanding mountain stage rated for experienced hill walkers, not beginners. It crosses a pass above 2,400 m on rocky, sometimes exposed terrain with around 900 m of cumulative climbing over roughly 13 km. There is no road access or mid-route bailout, so good footwear, navigation skills and a head for high alpine ground are essential.

How long does R143 take per day?

R143 is designed as a single Via Alpina day stage, taking a fit hiker about six to seven hours of moving time including the climb to the pass and the descent into the Vallone della Barra. With photo stops at Lago del Valasco and the Casa di Caccia, plan a full day. Start before 08:00 to clear the high ground ahead of afternoon thunderstorms.

What accommodation is available on the route?

The stage links two CAI mountain refuges, Rifugio Morelli-Buzzi and Rifugio Ellena-Soria, with no village in between. A dormitory bunk costs €25–30 per night in 2026, and half-board runs €55–70. Both are summer-only and require advance booking, especially in August. Wild camping is restricted inside the national park, so an overnight at one or both huts is effectively required.

Do I need a permit to hike R143?

No permit is needed and entry to the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime is free. The only obligatory costs are refuge fees. However, the park prohibits drones, open fires and off-trail camping, and dogs must be leashed to protect chamois and ibex. Sign the refuge logbook so wardens can track hikers on the high trails for safety.

For full official stage details, consult the Via Alpina stage R143 description and the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime official website before you set out.