Via Alpina Red R144

The Via Alpina Red R144 is a roughly 9 km point-to-point alpine trail in the Maritime Alps of Italy, climbing from Rifugio Ellena-Soria (1,840 m) over the historic Colle di Finestra (2,471 m) to the Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre (1,903 m) in France, gaining about 640 m. Rated moderately demanding, it is a high, rocky cross-border stage on Europe's flagship long-distance route.

About the Via Alpina Red R144

Stage R144 is a single link in the Via Alpina Red Trail, the longest of five colour-coded routes that together form the International Walking Network (IWN) across the Alps. The Red Trail alone runs 161 stages (R1–R161) from Trieste, Italy, to Monaco, threading through all eight Alpine countries. The full network was created in 2000 by public and private organisations from those countries and received European Union funding from 2001 to 2008. The secretariat began at the Association Grande Traversée des Alpes in Grenoble and moved to CIPRA in Liechtenstein in 2014.

R144 sits near the very end of that long journey, deep in the Maritime Alps where the chain meets the Mediterranean. The official operator via-alpina.org catalogues this leg as the crossing from Rifugio Ellena-Soria to the Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre. It is a genuine border-crossing stage: you start on the Italian side inside the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime and finish inside France's Parc National du Mercantour, stepping between two countries on a single col that smugglers, soldiers and salt traders used for centuries.

Despite its modest distance of around 9 km, R144 is unmistakably high-mountain terrain. Expect rough rock, late-lying snow on the pass into early summer, and exposure to fast-changing weather. Walkers usually allow 3 to 4 hours of moving time, but the altitude, the loose ground near the col and the lack of any escape routes mean it should be treated as a serious mountain day rather than a quick valley stroll.

Route Overview & Stages

R144 is a self-contained stage, best understood as three clear segments: the valley climb, the pass crossing, and the descent into France. The figures below are practical planning estimates based on the start and finish refuge altitudes and the col elevation.

Total: approximately 9 km, around 640 m of ascent and 570 m of descent, with the high point on the Colle di Finestra. There is no resupply, water source guarantee or bail-out option between the two refuges, so carry everything you need for the full crossing.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Rifugio Ellena-Soria (1,840 m) — the Italian-side base in the Vallone della Rovina, above San Giacomo di Entracque, run by the Club Alpino Italiano and the natural launchpad for the day.
• Colle di Finestra / Col de Fenestre (2,471 m) — the dramatic gap that gives the trail its name; a centuries-old salt and pilgrimage pass marking the watershed and the Italy–France frontier.
• Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime — the Italian protected area surrounding the start, famous for the largest population of Alpine ibex in the western Alps.
• Parc National du Mercantour — the French national park you enter at the col, home to chamois, golden eagles and reintroduced wolves.
• Cime du Gélas (3,143 m) — the highest peak of the Maritime Alps, dominating the skyline above the Madone valley on the French descent.
• Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre (1,903 m) — the staffed French refuge beside the historic Notre-Dame de Fenestre sanctuary, the day's destination.
• Sanctuary of Madone de Fenestre — a mountain pilgrimage chapel with roots reaching back to the medieval period, sitting in a glacial amphitheatre.
• Lac de Fenestre — a small alpine tarn near the pass, a worthwhile short detour for those with energy and good weather.

Best Time to Hike the Via Alpina Red R144

The Maritime Alps have a short but reliable high season. The Colle di Finestra at 2,471 m holds snow well into late spring, and both refuges are only staffed in the warmer months, so the practical walking window runs from late June to late September.

Early summer (late June into July) brings long daylight, flowering meadows and full streams, but expect lingering snow on the north-facing approach to the col and the chance of afternoon thunderstorms. September offers the most settled, dry weather, cooler walking temperatures and fewer crowds, though refuges begin reducing service toward the end of the month.

As of 2026, the single best month to hike R144 is September: snow has cleared from the pass, thunderstorm frequency drops, visibility for the Cime du Gélas panorama is at its best, and both refuges are typically still staffed in the first three weeks. Always check current refuge opening dates and the mountain forecast the week before you go, and start early to be off the pass before any afternoon weather builds.

Practical Information

Accommodation

R144 is a hut-to-hut day, so your bookends are mountain refuges rather than towns. On the Italian side, Rifugio Ellena-Soria offers dormitory beds and meals; half-board (bed, dinner and breakfast) typically runs around €55–€65, with CAI members paying reduced rates. On the French side, the staffed Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre charges roughly €20–€25 for a dormitory bunk and around €50–€60 for half-board. Both fill quickly in July and August, so reserve ahead and reconfirm by phone. Wild camping is restricted inside the Parc National du Mercantour, where only brief overnight bivouacs far from roads are tolerated under park rules — plan to sleep at the refuges instead.

Getting There & Back

The Italian trailhead is reached via Entracque and San Giacomo, above the town of Cuneo; Cuneo has the nearest rail station, roughly 1–1.5 hours by car or seasonal bus from the valley road head, from where a walk-in leads to Rifugio Ellena-Soria. On the French side, the Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre is served by the village of Saint-Martin-Vésubie, about a 1-hour drive from the city of Nice and its airport (NCE), with seasonal bus links up the Vésubie valley. Because the stage is point-to-point and ends in a different country, plan logistics carefully: either continue along the Via Alpina, arrange a vehicle shuttle, or build a multi-day loop.

Permits & Fees

No permit is required to walk R144, and both the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime and the Parc National du Mercantour are free to enter on foot. The costs you will pay are refuge nights and meals. Park regulations apply throughout: dogs are restricted or banned in the French national park core zone, drones are prohibited, fires are not allowed, and you must carry out all rubbish. Verify the latest rules on the official Parc National du Mercantour site before departure.

Gear & Packing List

R144 is a short distance but a high, exposed crossing, so pack for genuine alpine conditions: sturdy boots with grip for loose rock, layers including a warm midlayer and a windproof shell, sun protection, a map and compass or GPS, and at least 1.5–2 litres of water capacity since reliable sources thin out near the col. Early in the season, light traction or an ice axe may be needed for residual snow on the north side of the pass.

Because you are only carrying a day's load between two staffed refuges, a lightweight 35–50 litre pack is ideal. The Abisko Hike 35 suits a fast-and-light refuge crossing, while the Atmos AG 50 gives extra room if you are linking several Via Alpina stages with food and a sleeping liner. For ultralight thru-hikers tackling the wider Red Trail, the 2400 Windrider keeps base weight low. If you are unsure how much pack you actually need, our review of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026 compares seven options tested on terrain like this. And because a high pass burns serious energy, our guide to how many calories you need hiking a full day helps you pack the right food for the climb.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the high-alpine character of R144 appeals, Italy's Dolomites offer multi-day routes with the same hut-to-hut rhythm but far more sustained mileage. These Alta Via routes string together refuges across dramatic limestone terrain and make natural next objectives once you have a Via Alpina stage under your belt. For an entirely different but equally rewarding cross-border classic, see our guide on how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania.

• Alta Via n. 2 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 2 (Italy), 185 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - XI tappa (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - X tappa (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 9 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 9 (Italy), 140 km

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike the Via Alpina Red R144?
Late June to late September is the practical window, when the Colle di Finestra is largely snow-free and both refuges are staffed. September is the single best month in 2026: settled, dry weather, fewer thunderstorms, cool walking temperatures and the clearest views of the Cime du Gélas. Always check refuge opening dates and the forecast before you set out.

How difficult is the R144 stage?
It is moderately demanding. The distance is short at about 9 km, but you climb roughly 640 m and cross the Colle di Finestra at 2,471 m on rocky, sometimes loose ground. There are no escape routes between the refuges, early-season snow can linger on the pass, and weather changes fast, so basic alpine experience and good footwear are essential.

How long does it take to walk per day?
R144 is a single stage covering about 9 km with roughly 640 m of ascent and 570 m of descent. Most fit hikers complete it in 3 to 4 hours of moving time. Allow extra for photo stops at the pass, lunch, a possible detour to Lac de Fenestre, and slower going if snow remains on the north-facing climb to the col.

Where can I sleep along the route?
The stage runs between two mountain refuges. Rifugio Ellena-Soria on the Italian side offers dormitory beds and meals, with half-board around €55–€65. The Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre in France charges roughly €20–€25 for a bunk and €50–€60 half-board. Both book out in July and August, so reserve ahead. Wild camping is restricted inside the Mercantour park.

Do I need a permit or pay fees?
No permit is required to walk R144, and entry on foot to both the Parco Naturale delle Alpi Marittime and the Parc National du Mercantour is free. Your only costs are refuge nights and meals. Park rules still apply: no fires or drones, restrictions on dogs in the French core zone, and a strict carry-out policy for all waste. Confirm current regulations before you go.