Via Alpina Red R23

The Via Alpina Red R23 is a roughly 13-km point-to-point mountain stage in Italy's Carnic Alps, hugging the Austrian border, that climbs about 900 m of elevation across a single 5–6 hour day. Rated moderate to demanding, it links the Hochweißsteinhaus to the Neue Porze Hütte along an exposed limestone ridge rich with First World War history and sweeping views toward the Dolomites.

About the Via Alpina Red R23

The Via Alpina Red R23 is stage 23 of the Red Trail, the longest of the five colour-coded routes that make up the Via Alpina, an international walking network created in 2000 by public and private organisations from all eight Alpine countries. The Red Trail alone runs 161 stages (R1–R161) from Trieste on the Adriatic to Place du Palais in Monaco, crossing Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, Italy, France and Monaco. Stage R23 connects the Hochweißsteinhaus (1,868 m) with the Neue Porze Hütte (1,942 m), a section the official route description summarises simply as "Hochweißsteinhaus – Neue Porze Hütte."

This day belongs to the Karnischer Höhenweg (Carnic High Trail), one of the classic high-level traverses of the Eastern Alps. The R23 follows the watershed ridge that forms the political frontier between the Italian region of Friuli Venezia Giulia and the Austrian state of Tyrol, so hikers cross repeatedly between the two countries without ever needing a passport check. The terrain is limestone and dolomite, with grassy saddles, scree slopes and short rocky steps. Because the path threads the front line of the 1915–1917 mountain war between Italy and Austria-Hungary, you walk past rusted barbed wire, collapsed barracks and tunnel mouths the entire way.

The Via Alpina was conceived to support sustainable development in remote mountain communities, and the R23 is a good example: the only services along the route are mountain huts, and the nearest villages sit hours below in the valleys. It is a committing alpine day for fit walkers rather than a casual ramble, but it requires no technical climbing skills, just sure footing and respect for fast-changing weather.

Route Overview & Stages

The R23 is a single official stage, but it breaks naturally into four sections defined by the saddles and huts strung along the ridge. The figures below are approximate; the full stage covers about 13 km with roughly 900 m of ascent and 800 m of descent, typically taking 5 to 6 hours of walking.

Most walkers tackle the stage west to east as written here, leaving the Hochweißsteinhaus after breakfast and reaching the Neue Porze Hütte in mid-afternoon. The direction can be reversed; gradients are similar either way because the ridge undulates rather than climbing steadily.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Hochweißsteinhaus (1,868 m) — the starting refuge, a sturdy Austrian Alpine Club hut tucked below the Hochweißstein/Monte Peralba massif and a popular base for the surrounding peaks.
• Öfner Törl — the first saddle on the frontier ridge, where the trail gains the open crest and the panorama opens north into Austria and south into the Friulian valleys.
• Filmoor-Standschützenhütte (2,350 m) — the highest staffed hut on the Carnic High Trail, named after the Standschützen militia who held this front; an essential refreshment and emergency shelter point.
• Porze / Monte Palombino (2,599 m) — the dominant limestone summit above the final descent, its flanks scarred with wartime galleries and trenches.
• Open-air war remains — tunnels, barracks foundations and barbed wire from the 1915–1917 mountain front line are visible along almost the entire ridge.
• Dolomite panoramas — on clear days the Sexten Dolomites and the distinctive Drei Zinnen (Tre Cime di Lavaredo) rise to the west.
• Neue Porze Hütte (1,942 m) — the day's destination, a welcoming hut on the Italian side beneath the Porze massif, known for hearty Carnic cooking.
• Frontier crossings — the path repeatedly steps over the Italy–Austria watershed, marked by old boundary stones engraved with the year and a number.

Best Time to Hike the Via Alpina Red R23

The R23 is a high-ridge route that depends entirely on the huts being open and the snow being gone. The reliable season runs from late June to late September. In June, lingering snowfields can still cover the north-facing saddles and ice axes are occasionally useful early in the month; by July the trail is usually clear and wildflowers carpet the grassy slopes.

The single best month is September. As of 2026, settled high-pressure spells in early autumn deliver the most stable weather of the season, with crisp air, sharp long-range visibility toward the Dolomites, far fewer walkers than in the August peak, and daytime ridge temperatures around 10–16 °C. The trade-off is shorter daylight, so start early. Both staffed huts on this stage typically close in the second half of September, so confirm dates before you commit.

Avoid early June in heavy snow years and steer clear of afternoon thunderstorms, which build quickly over the exposed crest in July and August; aim to be off the highest ground by early afternoon. Winter ascent is a serious ski-mountaineering undertaking and outside the scope of this guide.

Practical Information

Accommodation

This is a hut-to-hut stage with no hotels en route. The Hochweißsteinhaus and the Neue Porze Hütte bookend the day, and the Filmoor-Standschützenhütte (2,350 m) sits roughly two-thirds of the way along as a lunch stop or fallback. A dormitory bed (Matratzenlager) typically costs around €20–28 per night, while a place in a smaller shared room runs roughly €30–45. Half-board (dinner, bed and breakfast) generally adds up to about €55–70 per person. Members of an Alpine Club affiliated with the UIAA receive a substantial discount, often 30–50%, which can pay back the annual membership in a few nights. Bring cash in euros, as card payment is unreliable at altitude, and carry a sleeping-bag liner, which most huts require. Booking ahead by phone or email is essential in August and on weekends. Wild camping is restricted on both sides of the border; bivouacking is tolerated only above the tree line, late and discreetly, and never near the huts.

Getting There & Back

The nearest mainline railway stations are Lienz in Austria (about a 1.5–2 hour drive to the trailheads via the Lesachtal) and Sillian on the Innichen–Lienz line. The most convenient airports are Venice Marco Polo (VCE), roughly a 2.5–3 hour drive south, and Innsbruck (INN), about 2.5 hours to the north. From the Italian side, the village of Sappada is the usual launching point for the Hochweißsteinhaus, reached on foot or via forestry tracks; from the Austrian side, valleys in the Lesachtal give access. Public transport into these remote valleys is sparse, with only a few regional buses daily, so many hikers drive to a valley car park or arrange a local shuttle. Plan return logistics carefully, because the start and finish huts are not connected by a quick road link.

Permits & Fees

No permit is required to walk the Via Alpina Red R23, and there is no entrance fee for the trail itself. Your only fixed costs are hut nights, meals and any local transport. Crossing the Italy–Austria border on foot needs no paperwork, since both are Schengen countries, but carry photo ID. There is no charge to visit the open-air First World War sites along the ridge, though removing artefacts is illegal and they should be left in place.

Gear & Packing List

This is an exposed alpine ridge, so pack for sudden weather even in July. Sturdy B-rated hiking boots with good ankle support, waterproof shell layers, an insulating mid-layer, hat and gloves, sun protection and at least 1.5 litres of water capacity are non-negotiable. Trekking poles ease the repeated up-and-down of the saddles, and a headtorch is essential for early starts. Because you sleep in staffed huts, you can travel light, which makes a streamlined pack ideal. Good options include the 2400 Windrider for a minimalist load, the 3400 Windrider if you carry extra layers and food, or the supportive Abisko Hike 35 for those who prefer a framed pack. For wider context on choosing a lightweight pack, see our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026. Carry energy-dense snacks for the ridge, where there is no shop for hours; our guide to how many calories you need hiking a full day helps you plan rations for a 900 m ascent.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the high-ridge, hut-to-hut character of the R23 appeals, the Italian Dolomites offer some of the finest multi-day traverses in the Alps. These Alte Vie are longer, well-waymarked routes with the same network of staffed refuges and the same dramatic limestone scenery, making them natural follow-ups once you have a Carnic ridge day under your belt.

• Alta Via n. 2 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 2 (Italy), 185 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - XI tappa (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - X tappa (Italy), 180 km
• Alta via n. 9 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 9 (Italy), 140 km

For a wilder, border-crossing experience further afield, our guide on how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania covers another classic frontier ridge day with a similar commitment level.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike the Via Alpina Red R23?
Late June to late September, when the ridge is snow-free and the huts are open. September is the single best month: high-pressure spells bring stable weather, crisp visibility toward the Dolomites and far fewer walkers than August. Start early, as both staffed huts on the stage usually close in the second half of September.

How difficult is the Via Alpina Red R23?
It is rated moderate to demanding. There is no technical climbing, but the route covers about 13 km with roughly 900 m of ascent on an exposed limestone ridge with scree and short rocky steps. You need sure footing, a head for mild exposure and the fitness to walk 5–6 hours at altitude. It is not suitable for inexperienced or unfit hikers.

How long does the R23 take and how far is it per day?
The R23 is a single stage of about 13 km that most fit walkers complete in 5 to 6 hours of walking time, plus stops. As one day on the Via Alpina Red Trail it stands alone, but it links neatly into a multi-day Carnic High Trail traverse where daily distances range from 10 to 16 km with comparable ascent.

Where can I sleep along the route?
You sleep in mountain huts: the Hochweißsteinhaus at the start, the Neue Porze Hütte at the finish, and the Filmoor-Standschützenhütte (2,350 m) midway as a lunch or fallback option. Expect €20–28 for a dormitory bed and around €55–70 for half-board, with Alpine Club members receiving large discounts. Book ahead in August and carry euros in cash.

Do I need a permit to hike the Via Alpina Red R23?
No permit and no trail fee are required. Your only costs are hut nights, meals and local transport. Because the path repeatedly crosses the Italy–Austria border, carry photo identification, although both countries are in the Schengen area so there are no checks. The open-air First World War sites are free to visit but legally protected, so leave all artefacts in place.

For the official stage description, see the Via Alpina stage 203 page, and for regional access, weather and hut information consult the official Friuli Venezia Giulia tourism authority.