Via Francigena - Variante Moncenisio

The Via Francigena - Variante Moncenisio is a point-to-point alpine pilgrim trail in Piedmont, Italy, that crosses the Mont Cenis pass at 2,083 m before descending roughly 1,800 m into the Val di Susa over about 4 to 5 days. Rated moderate to demanding, it follows the medieval entry route that once carried pilgrims from France over the snow line toward Rome.

About the Via Francigena - Variante Moncenisio

The Via Francigena is one of Europe's great pilgrim corridors, a 3,268 km network stretching from Canterbury in England through France and Switzerland to Rome, designated a European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe in 1994. Its best-known itinerary was recorded around 990 AD by Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury, who logged 79 stages on his return journey from Rome and gave historians a remarkably precise medieval roadmap.

Most modern walkers know the Swiss approach over the Great St Bernard Pass, but it was not the only way south. The Variante Moncenisio preserves a parallel and equally ancient alpine entry. Pilgrims and merchants travelling from Champagne, Beaune and Lyon climbed to the hospice at Moncenisio — documented as a refuge since 825 AD — crossed the Mont Cenis pass, and dropped into Italy at Novalesa and Susa. From there the Val di Susa funnelled travellers toward Turin and on to Vercelli, where the variant rejoins the principal Francigena line.

This is the high-mountain face of the Francigena. Where the central Italian stages roll gently through Tuscan vineyards, the Moncenisio variant is a genuine alpine crossing: a long climb to a windy col, a steep technical descent past Romanesque abbeys, and a string of valley towns layered with Roman, Lombard and Savoyard history. Italy as a whole accounts for 88 stages and 2,074 km of the full route, with more than 36,000 m of cumulative ascent — and the Moncenisio approach front-loads a generous share of that climbing in its opening days.

Why choose the Moncenisio line over the more famous Great St Bernard route? For one, it is the road most travellers from western France actually used: Sigeric's contemporaries crossing from Champagne, Beaune and Lyon found the Mont Cenis pass the shortest and lowest practical gateway into the Italian peninsula. For another, the variant concentrates an extraordinary density of monuments — a Roman triumphal arch, two major Benedictine abbeys, and a clifftop sanctuary — into fewer than 70 kilometres of walking. It is also far quieter than the central Tuscan stages, which can feel crowded in high season. The trade-off is exposure and gradient: this is a section to respect, with real alpine weather and a descent that punishes tired knees.

Route Overview & Stages

The variant is most often walked as a four to five day alpine section beginning near Lanslebourg on the French side, topping out at the Mont Cenis pass, and ending where the Val di Susa opens toward the Turin plain. Stage distances below are indicative; many pilgrims split the long pass day according to weather and hut availability. The opening climb and the descent to Novalesa are the two stages that define the section — both should be tackled in good visibility, ideally before the afternoon, when cloud and storm build fastest over the col. Once you reach Susa the character shifts entirely, trading high mountain for a broad, historically rich valley floor.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Mont Cenis pass (2,083 m) — the watershed col between France and Italy, with the broad Lac du Mont Cenis reservoir and the modernist Pyramid chapel and museum recalling Napoleon's carriage road.
• Moncenisio hospice site — a refuge for pilgrims and travellers documented since 825 AD, the medieval anchor that made this crossing viable in an age before tunnels.
• Abbey of Novalesa — a Benedictine monastery founded in 726 AD at the foot of the descent, with frescoed chapels among the oldest in Piedmont.
• Arch of Augustus, Susa — a Roman triumphal arch from 9–8 BC, alongside the Porta Savoia gate and a Romanesque cathedral, marking Susa's role as a strategic alpine gateway.
• Sacra di San Michele — the dramatic 10th-century abbey perched on Mont Pirchiriano, symbol of Piedmont and inspiration for Umberto Eco's The Name of the Rose.
• Avigliana lakes — two glacial lakes and a well-preserved medieval borgo where the mountains finally give way to the Po valley.
• Val di Susa terraced vineyards — high-altitude Avanà and Becuet grapes grown on dry-stone terraces, a UNESCO-listed cultural landscape in places.
• Rivoli — a Savoyard castle town on the edge of Turin, the natural end point before the variant merges into the plain route toward Vercelli.

Best Time to Hike the Via Francigena - Variante Moncenisio

This is a true alpine pass, and the calendar is dictated by snow. The Mont Cenis col at 2,083 m typically holds snow on its northern slopes into June and can see fresh falls again by mid-October. For 2026 the realistic walking window runs from late June to late September.

The single best month is September. By then the snow is reliably gone, the summer thunderstorms that build over the Cottian Alps in July and August have eased, daytime temperatures in the valley sit comfortably around 18–24 °C, and the high-pass crowds of August have dispersed. July offers long daylight and warm conditions but afternoon storms are common — start the pass day early and aim to be down by midday. June can still be beautiful but demands microspikes and caution where snowfields linger above 1,900 m. As of 2026, hut and hostel staffing in the Val di Susa is concentrated between mid-June and the end of September, so shoulder-season walkers should phone ahead before relying on any single bed.

Practical Information

Accommodation

The variant mixes pilgrim-specific lodging with ordinary mountain tourism. Parish and association-run ostelli and posti tappa along the Francigena typically charge €15–25 per night for a dormitory bed, often with a donation option (offerta) at religious houses. A simple two- or three-star hotel or B&B in Susa or Avigliana runs €55–90 for a double room. There is a refuge near the Mont Cenis pass on the French side; in summer it fills fast, so book ahead. Susa and Avigliana both have full ranges of services — pharmacies, supermarkets and ATMs — making them sensible places to plan a rest day, while smaller hamlets like Novalesa offer only a handful of beds and limited shops. Wild camping is restricted in Italy and prohibited within protected zones, but a few valley campsites charge roughly €10–15 per person. Booking is strongly advised on weekends and around the August public holidays, when Italian hikers fill the Val di Susa lodgings. Carry a lightweight, well-organised pack so you can stay flexible between huts and hotels.

Getting There & Back

The Italian end is easy to reach. Susa has its own railway station with regional trains to Turin Porta Nuova in about 70 minutes; from Turin, frequent high-speed trains connect to Milan in roughly one hour. The nearest major airport is Turin–Caselle (about 50 minutes from Susa by train and bus), while Milan Malpensa and Lyon–Saint-Exupéry are both within three to four hours by public transport. For the French start near Lanslebourg / Val-Cenis, seasonal buses link the valley to Modane, which sits on the Paris–Turin rail line, giving a convenient train approach to the foot of the climb.

Permits & Fees

No permit is required to walk the Via Francigena or its Moncenisio variant — it is a public long-distance route across open countryside, passes and minor roads. The optional Credenziale del Pellegrino (pilgrim passport) costs only a few euros from the European Association of the Via Francigena Ways and lets you collect stamps and access reduced-rate pilgrim lodging. Some monasteries and museums, including the Sacra di San Michele, charge a modest entry fee of €6–8.

Gear & Packing List

An alpine pass crossing demands more than a flat valley walk. Plan for cold, wind and possible snowfields at the col even in midsummer, then heat in the valley below. Bring layered insulation, a waterproof shell, sturdy boots with ankle support, trekking poles for the steep Novalesa descent, and microspikes if walking in June. A 35–55 litre pack handles multi-day pilgrim loads comfortably: the 2400 Windrider suits fast, light hikers staying in huts, the larger 3400 Windrider adds room for shoulder-season layers, and the Abisko Hike 35 offers a supportive harness for steady valley days. Carry at least two litres of water capacity for the exposed pass section, where reliable sources thin out above the treeline.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the high-altitude character of the Moncenisio variant appeals, Italy's Alta Via network in the Dolomites delivers a similar diet of passes, refuges and dramatic ridgelines over longer multi-week itineraries. Each strings together hut-to-hut stages with serious daily ascent and reward in equal measure:

• Alta Via n. 2 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 2 (Italy, 185 km)
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti (Italy, 180 km)
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - XI tappa (Italy, 180 km)
• Alta via n. 6 delle Dolomiti - X tappa (Italy, 180 km)
• Alta via n. 9 delle Dolomiti - Dolomiten-Höhenweg Nr. 9 (Italy, 140 km)

For an even bigger alpine-pass adventure outside Italy, the Theth to Valbona crossing in Albania offers comparable high-pass drama at a fraction of the foot traffic.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike the Via Francigena - Variante Moncenisio?
September is the best month. The Mont Cenis snow has melted, the summer thunderstorms that build over the Cottian Alps in July and August have eased, and valley temperatures sit around 18–24 °C. The broader window runs late June to late September; June often still requires microspikes for lingering snowfields above 1,900 m.

How difficult is the Moncenisio variant?
It is rated moderate to demanding. The challenge is the alpine crossing itself: a sustained climb to the 2,083 m Mont Cenis pass followed by a steep, knee-testing descent of roughly 1,800 m toward Novalesa and Susa. Trekking poles help greatly. The lower Val di Susa stages are far easier, on gentle paths and quiet country roads.

How many kilometres per day should I plan?
Most walkers cover 15–25 km per day on this section, with the pass day kept shorter to allow for the climb and weather margin. At an average of 20 km daily — the same pace used to estimate the full 3,268 km Francigena — the alpine variant works comfortably as a four to five day stretch before joining the plain route to Vercelli.

What accommodation is available along the route?
Expect a mix of pilgrim hostels and posti tappa at €15–25 per dorm bed, often donation-based at religious houses, plus B&Bs and small hotels in Susa and Avigliana at €55–90 per double. A refuge sits near the Mont Cenis pass and fills quickly in summer. Booking ahead is essential in the short June-to-September staffing window.

Do I need a permit to walk the variant?
No permit is required. The Via Francigena and its Moncenisio variant are public routes across open land, passes and minor roads. An optional pilgrim passport (Credenziale del Pellegrino) costs only a few euros and unlocks stamps and discounted lodging. Some sites, such as the Sacra di San Michele, charge a small €6–8 entry fee.

For route authority and stage detail, consult the European Association of the Via Francigena Ways, and check current alpine conditions and transport via the regional service Visit Piemonte before you set out. Walking a long alpine day burns serious energy, so plan your food carefully — our guide on how many calories you need hiking a full day will help you pack the right fuel for the climb to Mont Cenis.