West Highland Way (Drymen to Rowardennan)

The West Highland Way (Drymen to Rowardennan) is a 23 km point-to-point trail in Scotland, United Kingdom, gaining roughly 570 m of elevation over 1 day. Rated moderate, it carries you over Conic Hill and across the Highland Boundary Fault, then traces the wooded eastern shore of Loch Lomond, marking the threshold where Lowland farmland gives way to true Highland country.

About the West Highland Way (Drymen to Rowardennan)

The West Highland Way is Scotland's first official long-distance footpath, opened in 1980 and running 154 km from Milngavie on the edge of Glasgow to Fort William beneath Ben Nevis. The Drymen to Rowardennan section is the second stage of that journey, and for many walkers it is the moment the route stops feeling like a stroll out of the suburbs and starts feeling like the Highlands proper. Over 23 km you climb the heathery shoulder of Conic Hill, drop to the lochside village of Balmaha, and then follow the eastern shore of Loch Lomond through ancient oak woodland to the small settlement of Rowardennan.

What makes this stage memorable is geology you can actually see. Conic Hill sits directly on the Highland Boundary Fault, the tectonic seam that splits Scotland into Lowlands and Highlands. From the 361 m summit ridge the islands of Loch Lomond — Inchcailloch, Torrinch, Creinch and Inchmurrin — line up in a near-perfect row, each one a surviving fragment of the same fault. Cross that line and the landscape changes character within a single afternoon: gentle farmland behind you, steep oak-clad braes and a 39 km long loch ahead.

The trail is managed by the West Highland Way Management Group and forms part of Scotland's National Walking Network. It is waymarked throughout with the distinctive thistle-in-hexagon symbol, so navigation is rarely a problem in good visibility. The path surface is mostly good — forest track, stone steps and well-drained lochside trail — but it is twisty and undulating, and the constant small ups and downs along Loch Lomond tire legs more than the modest total ascent suggests.

Route Overview & Stages

The official Drymen to Rowardennan distance is roughly 23 km (about 15 miles), typically split into four natural sections. Walking times run to 6–7 hours of continuous movement, so most hikers allow a full day with stops. The table below breaks the stage into those sections.

Walkers who want to avoid the Conic Hill ascent can take the low-level Milton alternative from the Garadhban Forest junction, which contours around the hill on forest track and rejoins the main route at Balmaha. It is gentler underfoot but misses the stage's signature viewpoint. The full Conic Hill route reaches a height of around 361 m, with the trail itself crossing the ridge slightly below the true top.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Conic Hill (361 m) — the defining climb of the stage, with the trail crossing a shoulder of the summit ridge. The view down the line of loch islands is widely rated one of the finest on the entire West Highland Way.
• Highland Boundary Fault — the geological dividing line between Lowland and Highland Scotland, visibly traced by the chain of islands stretching across Loch Lomond from Conic Hill.
• Balmaha — the halfway village, home to the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park visitor centre, the Oak Tree Inn, a café and public toilets.
• Loch Lomond — at 39 km long and 71 km² the largest freshwater body in Great Britain by surface area; the trail hugs its eastern shore for the entire afternoon.
• Inchcailloch island — a tree-covered nature reserve just offshore from Balmaha, reachable by a short seasonal ferry and home to an old burial ground and looped nature trails.
• Garadhban Forest — a working conifer plantation on the approach to Conic Hill, offering shaded walking and the first glimpses of the loch ahead.
• Sallochy and Milarrochy bays — sheltered pebble coves along the lochside section, popular swimming and rest spots in summer.
• Rowardennan — the stage end, with a hotel, the SYHA youth hostel and the trailhead for Ben Lomond (974 m), the most southerly Munro.

Best Time to Hike the West Highland Way (Drymen to Rowardennan)

The practical walking season runs from April to October. Spring brings the oak woodland into leaf and carpets the lochside with bluebells, but April and early May can still be cold and wet, with paths greasy after rain. Summer offers the longest daylight — well over 17 hours at the solstice — and the warmest, driest conditions, though July and August also bring the heaviest visitor numbers and Scotland's notorious midges, which are at their worst near still water like Loch Lomond from late June through August.

The single best month is May. As of 2026, May reliably delivers the most favourable balance for this stage: long days, the lowest average rainfall of the year in the Loch Lomond basin, fresh greenery, and — crucially — midge activity that has not yet peaked. Average daytime temperatures sit around 14–16 °C, comfortable for the sustained Conic Hill climb without the humidity that makes summer afternoons sticky.

September is a strong second choice, with cooling temperatures, thinning crowds and the first autumn colour, though rainfall increases. Winter walking (November to March) is possible but demands care: Conic Hill can hold ice and snow, daylight shrinks to around 7 hours, and the lochside paths flood in places. Whatever the month, check the forecast the night before — the Highland Boundary is the first place the weather turns wilder.

Practical Information

Accommodation

Rowardennan offers two main options at the stage end: the Rowardennan Hotel and the SYHA Rowardennan youth hostel, the latter with dormitory beds from around €30 per person per night. Balmaha, at the halfway point, has the Oak Tree Inn and several bed-and-breakfasts, with private rooms typically €90–140 for two. Wild-camping freedom is restricted here: from 1 March to 30 September, camping and firelighting management byelaws apply along Loch Lomond's eastern shore, and tents are only allowed at designated sites. The three managed campsites on this stage — Cashel, Milarrochy and Sallochy — charge roughly €8–12 per pitch and should be booked ahead in peak season. Outside the byelaw period the area reverts to Scotland's standard responsible wild-camping access.

Getting There & Back

The nearest mainline rail station to the start is Glasgow Queen Street, about 40 minutes by train from the wider West Highland Way trailhead at Milngavie. From Glasgow, regular buses run to Drymen and Balmaha in roughly 1 hour. Rowardennan has no rail link; the practical exit is a seasonal bus or the Loch Lomond waterbus across to Tarbet, from where trains and coaches continue. The nearest international airport is Glasgow Airport (GLA), about a 50-minute drive from Drymen. Many walkers use a baggage-transfer service between accommodations, which removes the need to carry full packs over Conic Hill.

Permits & Fees

No permit is required to walk the West Highland Way, and there is no charge for using the path itself. The only formal restriction is the seasonal camping byelaw described above, which is enforced by Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park rangers; camping outside designated areas during the byelaw season can result in a fine. Parking at Drymen, Balmaha and Rowardennan car parks carries a daily charge of roughly €5–8.

Gear & Packing List

This is a single demanding day rather than a multi-week expedition, but Scottish weather rewards preparation. Waterproof jacket and trousers are non-negotiable even in summer, and sturdy boots or trail shoes with good grip handle the stone steps on Conic Hill and the rooty lochside path. For a one-day stage, a lightweight 35-litre pack is ample — something like the Abisko Hike 35 carries a day's food, layers and water comfortably. Thru-hikers tackling the full 154 km route who need to carry several days of supplies often prefer a larger ultralight pack such as the 2400 Windrider or the roomier 3400 Windrider. For ideas on cutting base weight before a long Scottish crossing, see our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026. Pack midge repellent and a head net for any summer dates, plus enough food to fuel the Conic Hill climb — our guide to how many calories you need hiking a full day helps you plan portions that won't leave you flagging on the lochside undulations.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the Drymen to Rowardennan stage leaves you wanting more of Scotland and the wider UK trail network, several routes share its mix of waymarked national-trail comfort and genuine wild scenery. The neighbouring stages of the same path are the obvious next step, while the cross-country National Trails of England offer a contrasting flavour of long-distance walking. For walkers drawn to dramatic mountain valleys after Loch Lomond, our guide on how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania shows where the same appetite can take you abroad.

• West Highland Way (Kinlochleven to Fort William) — 24 km, the grand finale of the same route beneath Ben Nevis
• Great Glen Way — 120 km following the lochs and canal from Fort William to Inverness
• Hadrian's Wall Path — 135 km coast-to-coast along the Roman frontier in northern England
• Pennine Way (Middleton in Teesdale to Kirk Yetholm) — wild upland walking along England's mountain spine
• Coast to Coast Walk (St Bees to Shap) — the classic Lake District crossing from the Irish Sea

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike Drymen to Rowardennan?
May is the single best month. It combines the year's lowest rainfall in the Loch Lomond basin, long daylight of over 15 hours, fresh spring greenery and comfortable temperatures around 14–16 °C, all before the midge season peaks in late June. September is the strongest alternative, offering thinner crowds and autumn colour but wetter, cooler conditions on Conic Hill.

How difficult is the Drymen to Rowardennan stage?
It is rated moderate. The total ascent of roughly 570 m over 23 km is not extreme, but the steep stepped climb and descent of Conic Hill plus the constant small undulations along Loch Lomond make it more tiring than the numbers suggest. Reasonably fit walkers complete it comfortably; a low-level Milton alternative bypasses the hill for those wanting an easier day.

How far is it and how long does it take?
The stage covers about 23 km (15 miles) and takes most walkers 6 to 7 hours of continuous walking, or a full day with rest and lunch stops. Balmaha marks the roughly halfway point at around 13 km, where most people pause for refreshments before the longer, flatter lochside afternoon section to Rowardennan.

What accommodation is available along the route?
Rowardennan has a hotel and an SYHA youth hostel with dorm beds from around €30. Balmaha offers an inn and several B&Bs at €90–140 for a double. Three managed campsites — Cashel, Milarrochy and Sallochy — charge roughly €8–12 per pitch. Book ahead in summer, as beds and pitches near Loch Lomond fill quickly in peak season.

Do I need a permit or pay any fees?
No permit is required and the path is free to walk. The only restriction is the camping byelaw on Loch Lomond's eastern shore, in force from 1 March to 30 September, which limits tents to designated sites and is enforced by national park rangers. Car parks at Drymen, Balmaha and Rowardennan charge a daily fee of roughly €5–8.

For official route detail and seasonal updates, consult the West Highland Way Management Group's stage page, and check the latest camping byelaw boundaries with Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park before you set off.