Via Alpina Red R123

The Via Alpina Red R123 is a roughly 15-km point-to-point stage in France's Vanoise National Park, running from the Refuge de la Leisse down to Termignon-la-Vanoise. It loses around 950 m of elevation while crossing the Plan du Lac plateau, and rates as moderate — a scenic, mostly downhill day past glacier-fed lakes with views of the Grande Casse.

About the Via Alpina Red R123

The Via Alpina is a network of five long-distance hiking trails created in 2000 by hiking organisations from the eight Alpine nations: Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, Italy, France and Monaco. The Red Trail is the backbone of the system — the longest of the five at 161 stages (labelled R1 to R161), running all the way from Trieste on the Adriatic to the Place du Palais in Monaco and crossing every one of those eight countries.

Stage R123 sits deep inside the French section, within the Vanoise National Park (Parc national de la Vanoise), France's first national park, established in 1963. The official Via Alpina description for this stage is simply Refuge de La Leisse → Termignon-la-Vanoise. It links the high Leisse valley — a glacial trough beneath the Grande Casse (3,855 m), the highest summit entirely within the Vanoise massif — with the village of Termignon in the Haute-Maurienne valley below.

As a point-to-point walk of about 15 km, R123 is one of the more accessible stages on the French Red Trail. The hard climbing has already been done on the previous day's approach over the Col de la Leisse; R123 is largely a descent, dropping from the high pastures and lakes around 2,400–2,500 m to the valley floor at roughly 1,300 m. That makes it a popular section both for Via Alpina thru-hikers working their way west toward Monaco and for day walkers exploring the Vanoise from Termignon. It is also operated and waymarked by via-alpina.org, the international association that maintains the route.

Route Overview & Stages

R123 is a single Via Alpina stage, but on the ground it breaks naturally into segments defined by the Leisse valley, the Plan du Lac plateau and the long forest descent to Termignon. The figures below are typical guidebook values for this stage; the Via Alpina lists it as one continuous day.

Total distance is approximately 15 km with around 950 m of net descent and only 150–200 m of cumulative climbing, which is why most hikers complete it in 4 to 5 hours of walking time.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Refuge de la Leisse (2,487 m) — the starting hut, set in a wide glacial valley directly beneath the Pointe du Grand Pré; a classic Vanoise refuge run under the national park network.
• Grande Casse (3,855 m) — the highest peak entirely inside the Vanoise, visible to the north-west for much of the day, often still carrying snow and glacier into late summer.
• Lac des Nettes — a string of small alpine tarns below the Pointe de la Réchasse, reflecting the surrounding summits on calm mornings.
• Plan du Lac (2,364 m) — a famous viewpoint plateau and refuge offering one of the best front-row panoramas of the Vanoise glaciers, a highlight even for non-hikers.
• Lac du Plan du Lac — a shallow plateau lake that mirrors the Dôme de Chasseforêt ice cap in good weather.
• Bellecombe — the upper road-head and shuttle stop, where the trail meets the national park access track from Termignon.
• Doron de Termignon valley — the larch-and-pasture corridor that carries the trail down to the village, rich in alpine flora in early summer.
• Termignon-la-Vanoise (1,300 m) — a traditional Haute-Maurienne village at the confluence of the Doron and the Arc, and the gateway settlement for this whole sector of the park.

Best Time to Hike the Via Alpina Red R123

The walking season in this high corner of the Vanoise is short. Snow lingers on the Plan du Lac plateau and around the Leisse valley well into June, and the staffed refuges typically open from mid-June and close in mid-September. The practical window is therefore late June through late September.

The single best month is September. By then the snowfields have melted off the path, the larches begin to turn gold, biting insects have faded, the trails are quieter than in the July–August peak, and the air is at its clearest for the long glacier views from Plan du Lac. As of 2026, the Refuge de la Leisse and Refuge du Plan du Lac generally remain staffed until around 15–20 September — confirm exact closing dates before you go, as Alpine huts adjust each season with the weather.

July and August offer the warmest, longest days and the fullest wildflower meadows, but they also bring afternoon thunderstorms that build quickly over the surrounding 3,000 m peaks. Start early, aim to be off the exposed Plan du Lac balcony by mid-afternoon, and always check the Météo-France mountain bulletin for the Vanoise the night before.

Spring and autumn shoulder weeks demand caution. In early June, residual avalanche snow can bury sections of the path near the Col de la Leisse approach, and refuges may not yet be staffed, meaning no warm meals or guardian to advise on conditions. After the third week of September the weather turns rapidly: the first serious snowfall can arrive at plateau level, the Bellecombe shuttle stops running, and daylight shortens to under twelve hours. Outside the staffed season the trail is for experienced, self-sufficient parties only.

Practical Information

Accommodation

Because R123 begins at a refuge and ends in a village, you have two very different lodging worlds at each end. The mountain huts on and around this stage are operated within the Vanoise National Park network:

• Refuge de la Leisse (2,487 m) — the start point; dormitory beds run roughly €25–€30 per night, with half-board (dinner, bed and breakfast) around €55–€65.
• Refuge du Plan du Lac (2,364 m) — an optional break or overnight roughly two-thirds of the way; similar pricing, with a celebrated terrace for sunset over the glaciers.
• Termignon-la-Vanoise — the village offers gîtes d'étape (around €20–€40 per bed), small hotels and guesthouses (double rooms typically €70–€110), and a municipal campsite where pitches run about €15–€25.

Wild camping is restricted inside the national park; bivouac (overnight only, from dusk to dawn) is tolerated within a short distance of refuges under park rules. Book hut half-board ahead in July and August, when beds fill weeks in advance.

Getting There & Back

Termignon-la-Vanoise lies in the Haute-Maurienne valley, served by the SNCF railway. The nearest main station is Modane (about 15 km away, roughly 25–30 minutes by bus or car), on the Chambéry–Turin line with TGV and TER connections. From Modane, regional buses run up the Maurienne to Termignon in summer; the journey takes around 30 minutes. The nearest international airports are Chambéry (around 1 hr 45 min by road), Lyon–Saint-Exupéry (about 2 hr 30 min) and Geneva (around 2 hr 30 min). To reach the start, take the seasonal national-park shuttle from Termignon up to the Bellecombe trailhead, then walk in toward the Refuge de la Leisse — or simply hike the R123 in reverse if you are based in the valley.

Permits & Fees

No permit or entry fee is required to hike R123 or to enter the Vanoise National Park on foot — access is free. You must, however, respect the park's core-zone rules: dogs are prohibited (even on a leash), drones and fires are banned, you must stay on marked paths, and all wildlife and plants are protected. Costs are limited to refuge nights, food and the optional Bellecombe shuttle. Up-to-date regulations are published by the Vanoise National Park authority.

Gear & Packing List

This is a high-Alpine day above 2,300 m for much of its length, so pack for sudden weather swings even in midsummer: a warm midlayer, a waterproof shell, sun protection and at least 1.5 litres of water capacity. Sturdy boots with good grip handle the rocky valley floor and the steeper forest descent to Termignon. Trekking poles take strain off the knees on the long −950 m drop.

If you are linking R123 into a multi-day Via Alpina section, a comfortable 35–55 litre pack is ideal. The Abisko Hike 35 suits hut-to-hut walkers travelling light, while thru-hikers carrying camping kit and food often prefer a roomier load-hauler such as the Arc Haul Ultra 60L or the 2400 Windrider. For a single-day version from Termignon, a lightweight 12–20 litre vest like the ADV Skin 20 is plenty. Fuel matters too on a long descent day — read how many calories you need hiking a full day before you portion your snacks, and if you are still choosing a pack, our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026 compares seven options head to head.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the glacier views and hut-to-hut rhythm of the Via Alpina Red R123 appeal, France has several iconic long routes that scratch the same itch — from the granite spine of Corsica to the wide circuit around Mont Blanc. These nearby trails make natural follow-ups or warm-ups:

• Tour du Mont Blanc - Itinéraire principal — the classic 170 km circuit of the Mont Blanc massif, just north of the Vanoise.
• GR 20 Principale — Corsica's famously rugged high-mountain traverse, a tougher test for strong hikers.
• Chemin de Stevenson - Liaison 1 — a gentler, history-rich walk through the Cévennes.
• GR 105 — a quieter long-distance route for those seeking solitude.
• Sulle strade dei valdesi: GRV Glorioso Rimpatrio dei Valdesi — a 325 km cross-border heritage trail through the Cottian Alps.

Looking further afield, the dramatic Balkan crossing in our guide on how to hike the Theth to Valbona trail in Albania offers a similar high-pass day with a fraction of the crowds.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike the Via Alpina Red R123?
September is the single best month. The Plan du Lac plateau is clear of snow, the larches start to turn gold, biting insects fade and the air is crisp for glacier views. The practical season runs late June to late September, matching when the Refuge de la Leisse and Refuge du Plan du Lac are staffed. Avoid June if heavy snow lingers.

How difficult is the Via Alpina Red R123?
It rates as moderate. The stage is roughly 15 km and mostly downhill, losing about 950 m from the Leisse valley to Termignon with only 150–200 m of climbing. The terrain is rocky in places and the final forest descent is steep, so good boots and trekking poles help — but there is no scrambling or technical exposure on the marked path.

How long does each day take and how far is it?
R123 is designed as a single Via Alpina stage of about 15 km, taking most hikers 4 to 5 hours of walking time plus breaks. Because it is largely a descent, daily effort is lower than neighbouring stages. Thru-hikers linking it into a longer Via Alpina section typically average 12–18 km per Alpine day, adjusting for elevation gain rather than distance alone.

What accommodation is available along the route?
The stage starts at the Refuge de la Leisse (dorm beds around €25–€30, half-board €55–€65) and passes the Refuge du Plan du Lac. Termignon-la-Vanoise at the finish offers gîtes d'étape (€20–€40), hotels and guesthouses (€70–€110 doubles) and a campsite (€15–€25 per pitch). Book hut half-board well ahead in July and August.

Do I need a permit or pay a fee?
No. Hiking R123 and entering the Vanoise National Park on foot are free, with no permit required. You must follow the park's core-zone rules: no dogs, no drones, no fires, stay on marked trails and leave wildlife undisturbed. Your only costs are refuge nights, food and the optional seasonal Bellecombe shuttle from Termignon to the trailhead.