Via Alpina Red R145

The Via Alpina Red R145 is a roughly 7 km point-to-point mountain stage in the Mercantour National Park, France, linking the Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre to the Refuge de Nice and gaining about 750 m of elevation over a single demanding day. Rated challenging, it crosses the airy Pas du Mont Colomb at 2,548 m through wild granite high country in the Maritime Alps.

About the Via Alpina Red R145

The Via Alpina is a network of five colour-coded long-distance trails created in 2000 by public and private organisations from the eight Alpine countries: Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, Italy, France and Monaco. The Red Trail is the longest of the five, running 161 stages (R1 to R161) from Muggia near Trieste on the Adriatic to the Place du Palais in Monaco on the Mediterranean. Stage R145 sits deep in the southern French Alps, one of the final mountain stages before the route drops toward the coast.

R145 connects two staffed mountain refuges inside the Mercantour National Park, in the Alpes-Maritimes department: the Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre (1,903 m) and the Refuge de Nice (2,232 m). The published stage description from the trail operator, via-alpina.org, names it simply as "Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre - Refuge de Nice." Though short in horizontal distance at around 7 km, it is a genuine high-mountain crossing: the path climbs to the Pas du Mont Colomb at 2,548 m, a narrow rocky notch reached by a steep scramble, before descending past glacial lakes to the second hut. Walkers usually budget five to six hours for the stage because of the terrain rather than the length.

This corner of the Maritime Alps is the southernmost glaciated massif in the Alps and shares much of its geography with the better-known GR52, which threads the same valleys on its way to the sea. The landscape is granite and gneiss, studded with hundreds of lakes and home to chamois, ibex, marmots and one of France's recolonising wolf populations. If you are tracking calorie burn on a stage this steep, our guide to how many calories you need hiking a full day is worth reading before you pack food.

Route Overview & Stages

The stage breaks naturally into three sections: the climb from the Madone valley to the pass, the technical crossing of the Pas du Mont Colomb, and the descent through the Fous basin to the Refuge de Nice. The figures below are approximate, as the operator publishes the stage without an official distance.

Net elevation across the day is modest because the two refuges sit only about 330 m apart, but the cumulative ascent of roughly 750 m and the steep, loose ground over the pass make it feel longer than its 7 km on the map. Many Via Alpina walkers combine R145 with the preceding and following stages to traverse the Mercantour heartland over three to four days.

The waymarking follows the standard Via Alpina logo alongside the local GR and park signposts, and the path is well established on the ground despite the rough terrain. The most committing section is the descent from the Pas du Mont Colomb on the Refuge de Nice side, where a series of cables and metal staples protects a steep gully that can stay damp and greasy after rain. Hikers prone to vertigo should know that the col itself is brief but genuinely exposed, with a short downclimb rather than a graded path. Mobile phone coverage is patchy across the stage, so download offline maps and note the hut telephone numbers before you set out.

Highlights & Points of Interest

• Sanctuaire de la Madone de Fenestre (1,903 m) — A centuries-old pilgrimage chapel and mountain hamlet at the trailhead, surrounded by larch forest beneath the highest peaks of the Maritime Alps.
• Pas du Mont Colomb (2,548 m) — The crux of the stage, a tight rocky notch reached by a steep chimney-like scramble with chains and cables fixed on the far side.
• Cime du Gélas (3,143 m) — The highest summit of the Maritime Alps, towering over the Madone valley and visible for much of the climb.
• Lac de la Fous — A dammed glacial lake just below the Refuge de Nice, its turquoise water set against bare granite slabs.
• Refuge de Nice (2,232 m) — A staffed Club Alpin Français hut and the stage finish, a hub for walkers and climbers exploring the Fous and Gordolasque cirques.
• Vallée des Merveilles — A short detour east of the route, famous for more than 35,000 Bronze Age rock engravings among glacier-polished slabs.
• Mercantour wildlife — Chamois and ibex on the high ledges, marmots in the meadows, and golden eagles overhead; the park records roughly 2,000 plant species, around half of all French flora.
• Mont Clapier (3,045 m) — A frontier peak on the French-Italian watershed, marking the southern edge of the Alpine glaciers seen from the pass.

Best Time to Hike the Via Alpina Red R145

The crossing of the Pas du Mont Colomb is only sensible once the snow has melted from the north-facing approach, which holds drifts well into early summer. The reliable window runs from late June to late September. The single best month is September: settled high-pressure weather is most common, the steep ground is clear of snow and ice, daytime temperatures at hut altitude sit around 12 to 18°C, and the summer crowds at the refuges have thinned. As of 2026, both refuges typically staff their guarded season from mid-June to mid-September, so early-September hikers still find hot meals and reservations available.

July and August bring the warmest, longest days but also frequent afternoon thunderstorms that build fast over the granite peaks; aim to clear the pass before midday. In June, expect lingering névé on the col and check conditions with the hut wardens before committing. By October the refuges close and the route becomes a serious, unsupported undertaking with real avalanche and verglas risk on the pass. Whatever the month, start early and carry layers, because the col is exposed and the weather in the Maritime Alps can shift from sun to sleet within an hour.

Practical Information

Accommodation

The stage is built around two staffed mountain refuges. The Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre (1,903 m) and the Refuge de Nice (2,232 m) are both run within the Club Alpin Français network. Expect a half-board rate (dinner, dormitory bed and breakfast) of roughly €55 to €70 per person in 2026, with CAF members receiving a discount on the bed portion. A bed only typically costs €23 to €28. Booking ahead is essential in July and August, as both huts are small and fill quickly.

Wild camping is restricted inside the Mercantour National Park: bivouacking is tolerated only between 7 pm and 9 am, more than one hour's walk from a road or park boundary, and not at all in certain sensitive zones. There are no campgrounds along the stage itself, though valley villages such as Saint-Martin-Vésubie offer hotels, gîtes and campsites for those building rest days into a longer Via Alpina itinerary.

Getting There & Back

The natural gateway is Nice. Nice Côte d'Azur Airport is the second-busiest in France, and Nice-Ville station has frequent TGV and regional trains. From Nice, regional buses run up the Vésubie valley to Saint-Martin-Vésubie (about 1 hour 30 minutes), the last village before the Madone de Fenestre road. A seasonal shuttle or taxi covers the final 12 km up to the sanctuary; allow another 30 to 45 minutes. Total travel from Nice to the trailhead is around 2.5 to 3 hours. At the far end, walkers usually continue on the next Via Alpina stage or descend the Gordolasque valley toward Belvédère, from where buses return to the Vésubie line and on to Nice.

Permits & Fees

No permit is required to walk the Via Alpina Red R145, and there is no entry fee for the Mercantour National Park. The route lies within the park's core zone, however, so its rules apply: no dogs (even leashed), no fires, no drones, no removing plants or rocks, and bivouac only under the time and distance limits noted above. Refuge stays are paid directly to the huts. Always verify current regulations with the Mercantour National Park before departure, as protected-zone rules are enforced by wardens.

Gear & Packing List

This is a short stage but a steep and exposed one, so pack as you would for any high-Alpine hut crossing. The scramble over the Pas du Mont Colomb means you want both hands free, so a well-fitting pack matters. A 35 to 55 litre pack is ideal for a hut-to-hut traverse: consider the lightweight Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Windrider for a fast, minimal kit, the larger Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Windrider if you carry more food and layers, or the load-hauling Osprey Atmos AG 50 for comfort on longer Via Alpina sections. For a deeper comparison, see our roundup of the best ultralight backpacks of 2026.

Beyond the pack, bring sturdy B1-grade hiking boots with good edging, trekking poles for the loose descent, a waterproof shell and an insulated layer for the col, sun protection, at least 1.5 litres of water capacity, a headlamp, and a light sleeping liner required by most French refuges. Because half-board is available at both huts, you can keep food weight low, carrying only snacks and emergency rations for the day.

Similar Trails You Might Like

If the wild granite of the Maritime Alps appeals, several other French long-distance routes make natural companions to the Via Alpina. The Tour du Mont Blanc - Itinéraire principal offers the same hut-to-hut rhythm at a grander scale around western Europe's highest massif. Corsica's GR 20 Principale is the natural step up in technical difficulty, while the gentler Chemin de Stevenson - Liaison 1 trades alpine scrambling for the rolling Cévennes. Closer to home, the GR 105 explores neighbouring Pyrenean country, and the 325 km Sulle strade dei valdesi: GRV Glorioso Rimpatrio dei Valdesi follows historic cross-border paths through the same southern Alps.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to hike the Via Alpina Red R145?
September is the best month. The Pas du Mont Colomb is reliably clear of snow from late June to late September, but September brings the most settled weather, fewer crowds and temperatures of 12 to 18°C at hut altitude. Both refuges are typically still staffed in early September, so meals and beds remain available before the huts close for the season.

How difficult is the Via Alpina Red R145?
It is rated challenging. Although only about 7 km long, the stage crosses the Pas du Mont Colomb at 2,548 m via a steep scramble with fixed chains and cables, on loose rocky ground. With roughly 750 m of ascent and exposed terrain, it suits experienced hikers comfortable using their hands and confident on steep descents, rather than beginners.

How long does the Via Alpina Red R145 take per day?
R145 is a single Via Alpina stage, usually walked in one day of five to six hours including breaks. The technical pass slows progress far more than the modest 7 km distance suggests. Many walkers link it with the stages before and after, covering the Mercantour heartland over three to four days of hut-to-hut hiking.

What accommodation is available on the route?
The stage runs between two staffed Club Alpin Français refuges: the Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre at 1,903 m and the Refuge de Nice at 2,232 m. Half-board costs roughly €55 to €70 per person in 2026, with member discounts. Booking ahead is essential in July and August. Wild camping is tightly restricted inside Mercantour National Park.

Do I need a permit to hike the Via Alpina Red R145?
No permit or fee is required to walk the stage or enter Mercantour National Park. Because the route lies in the park's protected core zone, however, strict rules apply: no dogs, fires or drones, and bivouac is allowed only between 7 pm and 9 am, over an hour from any road. Pay refuge fees directly to the huts.