The West Highland Way is a 154 km (96-mile) long-distance trail from Milngavie, near Glasgow, to Fort William at the base of Ben Nevis. Most walkers complete it in 7–9 days, passing through Loch Lomond, Rannoch Moor and Glencoe. No permits are required and you can start any day from January to December, though June to September offers the most reliable trail conditions.
What Kind of Trail Is the West Highland Way?
The route is graded moderate. Total ascent is approximately 3,900 m across all eight stages — comparable to a single demanding Alpine day but distributed over a week of hiking. Navigation is straightforward thanks to consistent thistle-post waymarking, making it well suited to first-time long-distance walkers who can read a map but do not have off-trail navigation experience. Technical terrain is limited to the rocky descent from the Devil's Staircase (548 m, the route's high point) into Kinlochleven and the boulder-heavy lochside section north of Rowardennan.
The trail runs almost entirely on public rights of way or access land covered by Scotland's Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003, which grants responsible access to most land. Wild camping is legal under this act throughout the route, with one important exception: the Loch Lomond campsite management zone (approximately stages 2–3) requires a permit from April to September at £3.50 per person per night in 2026, bookable at the Loch Lomond Camping Permits website.
West Highland Way Stage Breakdown 2026
| Stage | Distance | Ascent | Est. Time | Key Feature |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Milngavie to Drymen | 19 km | 160 m | 5–6 h | Farmland and Mugdock Country Park |
| Drymen to Rowardennan | 24 km | 520 m | 7–8 h | Conic Hill, first Loch Lomond views |
| Rowardennan to Inverarnan | 22 km | 450 m | 6–8 h | Remote lochside — most technical section |
| Inverarnan to Tyndrum | 19 km | 380 m | 5–6 h | Glen Falloch waterfalls and River Fillan |
| Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy | 11 km | 340 m | 3–4 h | Open moorland — shortest stage |
| Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse | 19 km | 330 m | 5–6 h | Rannoch Moor — most remote section |
| Kingshouse to Kinlochleven | 14.5 km | 540 m | 4–5 h | Devil's Staircase (548 m high point) |
| Kinlochleven to Fort William | 22.5 km | 720 m | 6–7 h | Lairigmor Pass, final descent to town |
When to Hike the West Highland Way
The optimal window is mid-May to mid-September. July and August are peak season: accommodation books 3–6 months ahead, midges peak in late July near the lochside and trail surfaces are at their driest. June offers a compelling balance — bookings are easier to secure, midges have not yet peaked and daylight extends past 22:00 in the far north. May sees residual snowpack on higher ground; September delivers golden light, quiet trails and no midges, though early storms become more likely. According to VisitScotland 2025 trail data, the WHW sees approximately 85,000 registered walkers per year, with 60% completing the full route in July–August.
Accommodation and Costs in 2026
The WHW has a tiered accommodation system covering every budget. Most walkers pre-book the entire route — popular July nights fill by February.
- Wild camping: free outside the Loch Lomond permit zone; £3.50/person/night within it (April–September). No established fire rings exist on Rannoch Moor — use a camp stove.
- Bunkhouses: £25–45/night at every stage: Drymen, Rowardennan, Inverarnan, Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy, Kingshouse and Kinlochleven. Most have drying rooms, which matter in Scotland.
- B&Bs and guesthouses: £70–120/night including breakfast — the fastest overnight recovery option and the only way to start each day truly dry.
- Baggage transfer: WHW Baggage and similar services charge £10–15 per bag per day; worth every penny for non-camping hikers doing 20+ km stages.
- Total trip cost: budget £400–600 (camping and bunkhouses), comfortable £900–1,300 (mix of B&Bs), fully serviced £1,500–2,000.
Essential Kit List for the West Highland Way
Scotland's weather does not respect summer. Rain and 15°C regularly give way to wind, fog and 8°C within four hours — then back to clear skies. A reliable waterproof jacket is the single most important piece of kit on this route, ahead of boots and even a map. See our complete breakdown of the best ultralight rain jackets for hiking 2026 for specific model recommendations for Scottish weather.
For the pack, most WHW walkers carry 45–65 litres. The Osprey Atmos AG 65 is the most commonly seen pack on this route — its suspended mesh back panel ventilates during the humid lochside sections and the load-transfer hip belt handles the occasional 14 kg resupply carry comfortably. Pair it with a Patagonia Torrentshell 3L as your outer layer and you have a bombproof rain defence at 341 g. Trekking poles are strongly recommended for the Devil's Staircase descent; our best trekking poles of 2026 review covers the relevant options.
For the Rannoch Moor and Kingshouse–Kinlochleven sections, mobile coverage drops to zero. Carry the Garmin inReach Mini 2 for two-way satellite messaging — it is the only reliable emergency communication tool in these dead zones. At 100 g with a 24-hour battery at 10-minute tracking intervals, the weight cost is minimal relative to the safety benefit.
Camp lighting for bunkhouse evenings and remote pitches: the Black Diamond Spot 400 at 88 g handles all camp tasks including the rare night finish, with 400-lumen maximum output and a 4-day runtime on the mid-power setting.
The Midge Problem: How to Hike Without Being Eaten Alive
Highland midges (Culicoides impunctatus) are active from late May through mid-September, peaking in late July and August during calm, overcast post-rain conditions — precisely Scotland's most common summer weather. A midge head net (8–12 g) and 50% DEET repellent are essential items for any lochside section in peak season. Plan to be on trail or inside by dusk, choose campsites with a consistent breeze (wind above 3 mph keeps midges grounded) and check the Scottish Midge Forecast website for daily regional activity levels throughout your trip. For a different Scottish coastal walking experience with significantly lower midge exposure, the Fife Coastal Path is an excellent alternative or add-on.
Getting to the Start and Back from the Finish
Milngavie station is 15 minutes by ScotRail from Glasgow Queen Street, costing £3.50 in 2026. At the Fort William end, Scottish Citylink coaches 914 and 916 return to Glasgow in approximately 2.5 hours at £12–22 depending on booking lead time. The baggage transfer services are bookable online and pick up from each night's accommodation — a genuine quality-of-life upgrade on a route where daily mileage is already high.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you need a permit to hike the West Highland Way?
No permit is required to walk the West Highland Way itself. However, camping within the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park section (roughly stages 2–3) requires a permit from April through September at £3.50 per person per night in 2026, bookable at the official Loch Lomond Camping Permits website. Outside this zone, Scotland's Land Reform Act grants free wild camping access across the entire route.
How fit do you need to be for the West Highland Way?
A moderate baseline fitness is sufficient. You should be comfortable hiking 20+ km per day on mixed terrain with 400–500 m of daily elevation gain. If you can complete a 15 km hill walk in under 4 hours without significant fatigue, you are ready. Most walkers train for 6–8 weeks beforehand by building weekly long walks to 18–22 km, ideally including some ascent and descent.
When are midges at their worst on the West Highland Way?
Midges peak in late July and August, particularly in still and overcast conditions following rain on the lochside sections around Loch Lomond. Late June and September are significantly less affected. A combination of 50% DEET repellent and a fine-mesh midge head net (8–12 g) provides effective protection even in the worst conditions.
Can you wild camp on the West Highland Way?
Yes — Scotland's Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 grants responsible wild camping access to most land. The exception is the Loch Lomond campsite management zone (stages 2–3), where a permit at £3.50 per person per night is required from April to September. Outside this zone, wild camping is free and legal throughout the entire route.
How do you get from Fort William back to Glasgow after finishing?
Scottish Citylink coaches 914 and 916 run directly from Fort William to Glasgow Buchanan Bus Station in approximately 2.5 hours, with tickets from £12 when booked in advance in 2026. Trains also run from Fort William via the West Highland Line to Glasgow Queen Street, taking around 3.5 hours and offering some of Scotland's most scenic rail travel — a fitting end to the walk.