Walking the Geul: 47 km from Aachen to Maastricht in Three Days

Not every hike has to break you.

Earlier this year I walked half a day along the Geul, and the place would not let go of me. Rolling hills, a small river winding through them, and a kind of quiet you don't expect in the Netherlands. So when I wanted one more trip at the end of the summer holidays, I knew where I was going.

The plan was simple: follow the Geul from the Belgian border inland, as far as Maastricht, where I could get transport home. But once I started measuring, the Geul turned out to be too short for three days. So I moved my start line: south of Aachen, just over into Belgium, right against the German border. That gave me a first day through the hills before I would even reach the water.

Day one: hills, concrete teeth and too many tourists

The climbing came straight away. These are hills of around 350 metres, and I came up at them from sea level more than once. Steep, honest work — but never the kind that makes you question your life choices.

Somewhere in the woods south of Aachen I walked into a line of concrete blocks between the trees: the old dragon's teeth of the Westwall, standing there quietly with an information sign next to them. You don't expect a piece of history like that in the middle of a forest walk.

Then came the Drielandenpunt, where Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands meet, and I'll be honest: it wasn't my thing. Packed with tourists. I had a quick look around and kept walking. The good part is what comes right after — you step back into the trees and you barely meet anyone again. From there I followed the Dutch side of the forest, sometimes five metres from the Belgian border, all the way to Vijlen.

16.8 kilometres, and I arrived exactly right. Tired and satisfied, but not wrecked. I pitched the tent at Camping Cottesserhoeve, took a shower, and walked to the small supermarket for two local beers. Sitting there in the evening with those, it was hard to think of anything I'd rather be doing.

Day two: finally, the Geul

This was the day I had come for, and it delivered. Pure enjoyment from start to finish.

It was a Saturday, so there were day-trippers about, which was a shame. But the views made up for it — genuinely breathtaking for a Dutch landscape. Part of the route goes straight through meadows along the water, and in some of them a whole herd of cattle stands grazing, so you pay attention and keep your distance.

Standing right next to the Geul, it was beautiful and calming. That's the part that has stayed with me.

If I have to pick one moment: on top of a hill, looking out over a valley. But honestly, the quiet minutes standing beside the water come close.

Thirteen kilometres to Wijlre, and then Natuurcamping de Gronselenput, where I've stayed once before. Always friendly people, and in the evening it is dead silent — you can hear the birds. Shower, two more local beers. The ritual held.

Day three: into Maastricht

The last stretch, 17.3 kilometres from Wijlre to Maastricht. This is where South Limburg is at its most itself: rolling hills, small villages where you can stop for a slice of vlaai with coffee. I found a little chip shop and had a broodje kroket in the afternoon, which felt like exactly the right way to end a walk like this.

Walking into Maastricht, I felt satisfied. Not relieved, not wrecked — just quietly pleased that I had properly enjoyed three days.

Would I do it again?

Absolutely, and I'd recommend it to anyone. A beautiful area, very quiet, the kind of place where you can empty your head. I think I'll walk it again one day — especially that stretch along the Geul.

I carried 14.2 kilos at the start, with a base weight of 11. For three days I allowed myself the luxury of a Helinox ground chair, 650 grams I did not regret once.